Of course, keeping exotic plants does not have to be limited exclusively to the garden. Exotic plants can also be kept in the living room. In this article we give some recommendations and points of attention. This way you can also enjoy exotic plants without a garden or extend the exotic garden to the living room.

Emplacement

Plants obviously need light. Lots of light! Even places that seem light enough for the human eye are often too dark for plants. Only a few plant species that naturally also occur as undergrowth in dark places will do well a little further away in the living room. In general, the place right next to a window is not an unnecessary luxury. Normally the glass filters all harmful radiation and there is little or no risk of burning. Be careful with any radiators that are placed close by. These provide a very dry air with an increased risk of spider mite. Floor heating is less problematic, especially when you water via the saucer (more about this later).

Which plant?

By paying some attention to the plant choice, you not only avoid disappointments but also prevent an unsuitable plant from wasting away and then appearing ugly in the living room.

A suitable plant can withstand the limited amount of light (relative to outdoors), the constant room temperature (also in the dark winter months) and the relatively dry air.

Because houses used to be much more draughty and only partially heated by a stove or fire, other plants were common than nowadays.  Ferns, for instance, used to be very common as houseplants, but nowadays they are far from easy to keep.

Some very suitable plants for the living room:

palms:

• Chamaedorea-species (Chamaedorea elegans, Chamaedorea radicalis,…)
• Dypsis lutescens (the popular “Areca”)
• Howea forsteriana (the well known “Kentia”, also suitable for the more darker emplacements)
• Phoenix roebelenii (if placed colder during the winter months)

Howea forsteriana, Dypsis lutescens, Phoenix roebelenii

bananas & relatives:

• Musa acumunita ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (most sold banana plant, often sold under names as; Musa nana, Musa tropicana,…)
• Strelitzia reginae ( if placed colder during the winter months for new blossoming)
• Strelitzia nicolai
• Alocasia-species (Alocasia calidora, Alocasia portadora,…)

Musa acumunita ‘Dwarf Cavendish’, Strelitzia reginae, Alocasia macrorrhiza

other exotics:

• Monstera deliciosa
• Ficus elastica
• Fatsia japonica
• Calathea-soorten
• succulents (Aloe, Agave,…)

Monsteria deliciosa

Some unsuitable plants for the living room:

palms & relatives:

• Trachycarpus-species
• Cocos nucifera (the very popular Coconut)
• Cycas revoluta (needs more light)

bananas & relatives:

• Musa basjoo
• Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelli’
• Heliconia-species
• Colocasia-species

other:

• bamboo (air too dry indoors)

Of course this overview is not complete, it only gives an idea! As always, the place of origin gives a good idea of what the plant requires. Plants from typical tropical areas will suffer from too dry air indoors, e.g. for Heliconias. Some plants also need a cool winter. Sometimes for stimulating new blooming such as the Strelitzia for instance, others because of the combination of high temperature and short, dark days that confuse them, such as the Phoenix roebelenii for instance.

Watering

Many of the problems with indoor plants are caused by unadjusted watering (often too much!). Be sure to watch our instruction video and give as much as possible via the saucer. Not only does the water evaporate alongside the plant for an improved humidity, but this way you also avoid the annoying sciarid flies that otherwise reproduce in the moist potting soil.

Alternatives

If you do not have a single suitable place in the house, there are still some possibilities. For instance, with a paludarium you can imitate a mini climate. You can also make a mini garden to put on the table.

paludarium

oa. Biophytum sensitivum

© La Palmeraie

Banana plants appeal to the imagination. They are also fairly common to find in the local garden centre as the Musa basjoo is gaining more popularity. Many people are still somewhat reluctant to actually buy a banana plant. However, in terms of care they are not at all so difficult. If you still having troubles, then you will surely find the solution here.

Leaves turn yellow or brown

(usually this starts on the edges and then will spread to the entire surface of the leave)

This can have several causes, where to most common are;

• the plant is kept too moist / too wet or lacks nutrients
• the plant suffers from a pest
• the humidity is too low for the plant

• the plant is kept too moist / too wet or lacks nutrients

First of all check the humidity of the soil. In summer the banana plant likes a lot of water and fertilizer. During winter, however, it must be kept relatively dry. Do not only limit yourself to the top layer, but also check deeper into the pot. If necessary, take the plant out of the pot. The difference can be amazing. Excess water must in any case be able to flow away. Cocopeat (often used by nurseries) is not suitable as a potting soil, because it contains too few nutrients for the banana plant.

Solution: Adjust the conditions if necessary.

• the plant suffers from a pest

Carefully check the leaves for the presence of undesirable residents. Honeydew (a sticky transparent substance) indicates the presence of lice. Ants on the petioles can also indicate that lice are present. The ants are feeding on the lice. Scale insects, small flat brown insects, are quite difficult to detect. Watch leaves with honeydew inch by inch, from the top to the bottom. Spider mite is barely noticeable with the naked eye. In places where they group together, detection should be easier. Therefore, especially look at the bottom of the leaf along the veins, the leaf tips and the petiole. Spider mite also produces typical woolly spider webs in those places. Mealy bugs look like white mold flakes that from close up look do look like white woodlouse.

Solution: Treat the pest with a dedicated chemical product. The local garden centre has enough appropriate products in their assortment. Biological variants are usually slightly less effective and are therefor less ideal for such persistent problems.

Aphids                                Scale insects                           Spider mite

• the humidity is too low for the plant

Indoors, humidity can also be a problem. Especially during the winter months when the central heating is on.

Solution: see Air humidity too low? This is how you solve it!

Black stains on the leaves

Black stains on the leaves often occur in the case of bananas outside in combination with cold and wet weather. Normally the new leaves are beautiful again when the weather gets warmer and drier.

Torned leaves

The large leaves of banana plants tear up quite quickly in the wind. Unfortunately, this is not avoidable, but fortunately it does not cause a problem for the plant.

Leaves do not open/deploy

During the peak season, growth can be quite fast. Every few days a new leaf is not unusual in case of a well growing banana plant. It is therefore possible that a new leaf rises already when the previous one is not even completely unfolded. Normally this problem solves itself. Only when the plant keeps repeating this phenomenon and the different leaves are really in the way of each other there can be a blockage.

Solution: The solution in case of a blockage is simple but rigorous: decapitation of the plant. Cut the stem horizontally just below the leaves. This will also cut off the blockage. The plant is of course temporarily leafless, but thanks to the rapid growth, nothing is visible after a short time. The banana plant will simply continue to grow from this point onwards.

Drops on the leaf tips

Droplets on the leaf tips are quite normal. This phenomenon is called guttation. See Why are there water drops on the leaf tips?

Offshoots in the pot

It is quite normal for the plant to form offshoots alongside the principal stem over time.

Solution: If wanted you can cut these offshoots to pot them individually (see: Banana plant multiplication) You can also just let them grow next to the mother plant.

© La Palmeraie

Normally, a banana plant only develops one new leaf when the previous one is almost completely rolled out. However, this growth is never entirely regular. Sometimes it takes a bit longer for a new leaf to appear, sometimes it goes very fast. Occasionally even to the extent that the previous leaf has not even been rolled out when a subsequent leaf emerges. The plant even seems to be stuck in this process.

The cause

The solution

In any case, it can do no harm. In most cases the banana plant just grows beyond and the next leaves are normal again. Especially when flowering is imminent, the best is to leave the plant be.

In a few cases, clogging of the trunk is the cause and then the growth really gets stuck. Leaves come up deformed or split their way through the side of the trunk. In this case, the stem must be cut just below the entire leaf crown. Of course you lose all the leaves, but after that new leaves are formed without any problems. Due to the high growth rate, this intervention is quickly no longer visible.

© La Palmeraie

By nature many of the palms that we cultivate originate from tropical or subtropical areas. In terms of average temperature, a living room meets the requirements perfectly. Air humidity is often a much greater problem. In this article we discuss how this problem can be tackled easily.

Heating in the living room

The central heating in the living room not only ensures the ideal temperature for you and your exotic plants, but also provides a very dry air. The fact that this was different before the time of central heating systems is proved by the fact that very different houseplants were kept at the time. Nowadays, a fern or ivy in the living room is no longer that common anymore. It is therefore recommended that you pay extra attention to the location and/or use of the heating radiator.

Underfloor heating is a nice alternative. Not only is the heating (and thus also the dry air) much less concentrated on certain places but the warm underground also stimulates the growth of the roots.

Humidify

Spraying the leaves of your palm regularly with a humidifier is of course a possibility. It’s natural, it removes dust on the leaves and creates a good opportunity to take a closer look at the overall condition of your palm. Unfortunately, there are also some disadvantages. Spraying is usually accompanied by the necessary cleaning of your floor afterwards and the palm drips for a while. The effect is also only of short duration because the mist dries up relatively quickly. Spraying repeatedly is therefore a must. Especially in the case of palm trees from a very tropical climate such as the coconut palm.

Water bowls

Another simple but perhaps less aesthetic solution is to place water bowls. The water evaporates and increases humidity locally. You can increase humidity where necessary in a targeted manner. Special trays are sold to hang on the radiator itself, but a own creation will do just as good. A plastic bottle can be cut along the length of the bottle. Place it filled with water on the radiator. You can also put a bowl of water on the potting ground or next to it. The only thing you have to do now is to fill up all the water bowls regularly.

“Island-method”

The most discreet and durable technique for increasing the humidity of the air, where necessary, is so-called island method. The intention is that there will be permanent water in the saucer without the palm being permanently standing in the water because this would cause root rot. It is therefore important that the pot is placed on an elevation to avoid direct contact with the water. For this you can use anything; an inverted smaller saucer (from which the name “island method”), bobbins, stones, gravel,….. The water from the saucer evaporates up along the pot and thus ensures a locally increased humidity. When watering the palm, the excess water runs through the drainage holes in the saucer below it, so that there is always a layer of water in it. If necessary, you can also fill it directly.

And outdoors?

Outside, humidity is absolutely no problem. It rains often enough so we have about the same humidity as in a tropical climate….

© La Palmeraie

It is without a doubt the question we are asked the most. Whether it concerns palm trees or banana plants, there is often a lot of uncertainty about the correct dosage when it comes to the irrigation. Therefore, we thought it would be useful to devote a special article to this item.

How to water?

Water through the saucer:

This way, the plant can never have too much. After all, roots absorb water as needed, just as they would in the ground with groundwater. Compare it to a cigarette paper partially suspended in water.

Another advantage is that the top layer of the soil remains dry and no fungi or sciarid flies nest there.

For some plants, it is advisable to fill the saucer only once a week so that the saucer can dry in between and the roots do not remain permanently submerged. During the winter months, it is advisable to take even longer breaks, for example every 2 to 3 weeks.

Watering on top of the soil:

Pour water over the entire surface until it begins to flow into the saucer. Take small breaks in between so that the saucer does not overflow.

Some general rules

If the saucer is emptied by the plant within 48 hours at the latest, that’s fine.

If it takes longer, empty the excess and wait a little longer next time.

If the saucer is empty after a few hours, give a little more.

No plant is the same

Unfortunately, this often also applies to the many, of course always well-intended, opinions. It is not uncommon to get very contradictory advice from the local garden centre, the plant label, books or the internet. The reason for this is quite obvious; no plant is the same and this also applies to the conditions in which you keep the plant. After all, it is not only the plant itself that determines its water needs, but a number of other factors are at least as important. And it is precisely these factors that can differ greatly. There is therefore no standard answer to the main question of this article.

Which factors influence water needs?

• plant characteristics
• location
• type of pot/soil
• season

Plant characteristics

Of course, it is important to know the basic needs for general care of your plant to begin with. Some plants prefer to be kept a bit drier, while others do better in more humid soils. The best indication is to check the plants natural habitat. It goes without saying that plants from desert areas are better kept dryer and vice versa.

In addition to the natural needs of the plant, the size of the plant also plays an important role. A large plant with a lot of leaves will evaporate more water than a smaller plant with only a few leaves. Larger plants are also more likely to have a better developed root system, so that water will be absorbed much better. With a smaller plant, the soil will remain wet longer as there are fewer roots for water absorption.

Location – planting place

In addition to the characteristics of the plant itself, the location also plays a very important role. For instance, plants outdoors require a different approach than plants indoors. Outside the plants are exposed to sun and wind, but also to rain or drought. The wind in particular can cause a strong increase of evaporation. Plants in pots also need more water than plants in the open because the potting soil can dry out faster. Indoors, the conditions are much more stable, so you will quickly discover a fixed pattern in the needs of your plant.

Type of pot/soil

The type of pot has an important influence on the water requirements of your plant. Stone pots (pottery) does evaporate moisture through the side walls, which causes the soil to dry out faster. However, with this kind of pots you can see by the color difference where the soil is still wet. This makes it a little easier to assess the need. In plastic containers, the soil remains slightly wetter because moisture can only evaporate through the top layer. So choose the type of pot consciously and use their characteristics to your advantage!

The type of potting soil can also play a role. There are many different types of potting soil available on the market with different water retention characteristics.

Season

Finally, it is also important to take into account the season. Most plants need a resting period which starts in the autumn when the days shorten and the temperature falls. This will also lead to a sharp drop in water needs. In spring, the plants start to grow again and the irrigation may be gradually increased.

Banana plants, quite different!

The explanation in the article does not only relate to palms, but actually applies to all plants. Banana plants, however, are an exception to the rule. After all, these plants are largely made up of water (80%). They also have a large leaf area. This makes them evaporate a lot of moisture on sunny and/or windy days. They therefore need a lot of water! However, this only applies to banana plants that grow well. As long as there is no growth, they should be kept dryer to prevent root rot. In the winter, they hibernate and need much less water. In this period, more banana plants encounter problems due to too much water than too little. Some species do not even need water at all during the whole winter season (e. g. Ensete).

Measuring

So there is no standard answer to the question “how much water does my palm tree/banana plant need”. Of course, there are ways to control the water needs of your plant. The easiest way is to check the humidity of the soil by inserting a finger in the potting soil. After all, the surface dries out quickly due to direct contact with the air, but just below the conditions can be very different. So feel a finger deep to control. If the soil sticks to your finger, the soil is still moist and a new irrigation will not be needed immediately.

There are also so-called humidity meters. These devices are not expensive (about €7, -) and are sold in the local garden centre. This sensor allows you to check the humidity a lot deeper and more accurately than with your finger. You will be amazed at how wet the potting soil will be a lot deeper! However, a humidity meter should not remain permanently in the pot and must be cleaned thoroughly after each use to prolong its service life. Instead of a humidity meter you can of course also use a long knitting pen or a bamboo stick, etc., but be careful of the roots.

At last

© La Palmeraie

We were asked how and where the Strelitzia seeds are made and especially if this is possible at home. This is why we describe in this article the fertilization of the Strelitzia (Bird of paradise).

Strelitzia in the wild

Who fertilizes the Strelitzia in nature is not completely clear and is still being researched. It is known that insects, including bees, do visit the flower. The flower is also visited by honeysuckers (Nectariniidae) but it seems as if this bird is able to reach the nectar without touching the fertile parts of the flower.

The flower 

On the horn-shaped horizontal sepal, 4 to 6 flowers are formed with bright orange petals. The fertile parts are in the horizontal blue’ arrow’.

The stamens become visible when the wings on the back of the blue arrow are pressed together. The stigma is the white tip at the front of the blue arrow, which becomes sticky and therefore receivable as soon as the stamens no longer spread pollen.

The fertilization

As indicated earlier, the plant cannot fertilize itself. However, the Strelitzia is often sold planted as several plants in one pot. When these different plants bloom, they can be fertilized by hand.

First the pollen must be collected. This can be done by gently opening the stamens and carefully run the tip of a straw over the stamens from base to tip. The pollen can then be stored in the refrigerator. As soon as another plant blooms and the stigmas are receptive (sticky), the collected pollen can be sprinkled onto the stigmas.

The seedpods

Approximately four weeks after successful fertilisation, a seedpod of the size of a passion fruit is formed in the horizontal sepal. This seed box is divided into three compartments and can contain up to 80 hard round black seeds with the typical orange threads. When the seed is ripe, the seed boxes burst open.

© La Palmeraie

Source:
http://culturesheet.org/strelitziaceae:strelitzia:reginae
Photos: Forest & Kim Starr

Exotic gardens have been very popular in recent years. A banana plant should certainly not be missing in such a garden. Banana plants grow quickly and become an ideal eye-catcher. They create this typical ‘tropics’ feeling. Banana plants are therefore more and more often part of the standard assortment of local garden centres.
Growing bananas yourself is of course also possible and even much more fun. The seeds are easy to obtain via the internet. But they are not easy to germinate, this method requires a great deal of patience. From the most popular banana plant, the Musa basjoo (Japanese fiber banana), no seeds are available. A much simpler way of propagating is to cut the offshoots. This method is also used by banana farmers. After all, it is fast and simple and gives immediate results. This step-by-step plan explains this technique in a simple way.

Offshoots

Banana plants make rhizomes. This means that at the foot of the banana plant small offshoots come above the ground. Usually this only happens when the root ball has reached a certain volume. First, the plant will always ensure a good development of its own root ball. Then the plant itself will start to grow and afterwards the offshoots will be formed. You can cut off these offshoots and transplant or replant them.

The method in 5 steps:

Step 1

First of all, the offshoot must be large enough so that sufficient roots are formed to survive. A good guideline is between 20-50cm ( 78 in – 1 ft 7 in) (depending on the species).

If you have rootless offshoots you can try to put them on water. They may form roots after all!

Step 2

Carefully dig away the soil around the offshoot. This way you can verify whether it has sufficient roots, and you can see better where you can cut. You can also decide to take the plant completely out of its pot but this is not necessary.

Step 3

Cut off the shoot with a sharp knife, as close to the mother plant as possible.

Step 4

Plant the cutting again in the garden or preferably in a pot with seeding and cutting soil.

Step 5

As soon as the offshoot start to grow again, fertilize and water for optimal growth. As soon as the cutting has a healthy root system, it can be planted in the garden again.

© La Palmeraie
Special thanks to TropiRo for the photos.

When most still enjoy the last sunbeams, the average exotic lover is already thinking about the coming winter. How are you going to help all those plants flawlessly through this winter again? In the months of September and October, this is often the main topic of discussion. Numerous articles have appeared on the internet about protecting a banana plant during the winter. But often these articles are only about packing as winter protection. To give a more complete overview of the possible methods, we have listed them all for you. This way you can choose which method is most suitable for you and your banana plant.

Is a banana plant hardy?

Some banana plants are known to be hardy. This hardiness, however, refers to the roots only. The plant stops already growing at temperatures below 5°C (41°F). From -2°C (28,4°F) the leaf freezes completely. With persistent frost, the pseudo stem, which contains a lot of moisture, will also freezes. The plant then dies off to the ground and only forms new shoots in spring (April/May). In order to get a larger plant and even achieve flowering, it has to survive the winter.

Some popular hardy species:

Musa basjoo -20°C / -4°F
Musa sikkimensis -15°C / 5°F
Ensete glaucum -10°C / 14°F
Musella lasiocarpa -5°C / 23°F

Methods overview

Four different wintering methods are discussed below. The first two methods leave the plant outdoors for the entire winter. In the last two methods the plant overwinters dry, i. e. indoors.

Outside

1) Without protection

Probably the simplest, but also the most risky method is not to protect the banana plant during the winter months. Depending on the severity of the winter, the result of this method will also vary. Some species are fairly hardy, but as mentioned earlier, this characteristic only applies to the rhizomes. When frost persists, the leaf and then the pseudo stem dies to the ground. In spring (April/May) new shoots emerge again.

+ no effort required
+ saves purchase of packaging materials/place in the house
- plant must start every year from 0 and thus never mature = no flowering
- at colder temperatures the roots also freeze ! = Banana plant dead!

2) Protected

Used materials:
Fleece cloth, sold in your local garden center and DIY stores.
Straw can be bought most cheapest directly at a local farm.

+ roots remain indisturbed
+ suitable for really big subjects or rhizomes with multiple stems
- difficult to determine with certainty the exact moment of application of the protection
- still no guarantee of preservation of the plant

Indoor

3) Dry hibernation

With this less familiar method, the pseudo stem is stripped of its leaves in autumn and then dug out with all its rhizomes. If the rhizome has several stems, these can now also be divided very well. The rhizome and its stem are placed in a tub. There is no need to add any potting soil. Place it in a cool place: between 5 to 10°C is perfect. Light is not required. The water gift must also be drastically reduced. Just enough to prevent the rhizomes from drying out. Growth will come to a standstill. It goes without saying that even fertilisation can no longer be administered now. In spring, the water gift may slowly be increased again. As soon as it is warm enough, the plant can also be placed outside and fertilizers can be used again.

This method allows for faster growth rates than plants that have wintered outside.

+ winter temperature is easier to manipulate
+ multiple stems can be stored together in a tight space
+ growth starts faster in spring
- digging out larger specimens takes some time and energy
- watering during winter is more difficult to determine; by feeling

4) As indoor plant

With this last method, the potted banana plant is given the brightest possible indoor location during the winter months. All the leaves are simply left in place. Reduced light intensity will reduce growth, but it will not completely stop it thanks to maintaining the higher (room) temperature. Watering should be limited to actual needs. The soil should be slightly damp, certainly not wet. You lose a banana plant during the winter more often due to too much moisture than too little! Of course, the fertilisation must also be adjusted during this rest period. As soon as the temperatures rise again in spring, the plant can be placed outside again. Remember that the old leaves have to get used to direct sunlight again. Therefore, it is best to start with a place in the shade and gradually increase the number of hours of direct sunlight.

This method is especially recommended for smaller banana plants and the most cold sensitive species.

+ minimum effort for plants that are already in pots
+ leaf pruning not needed
- space/suitable spot required
- not feasible for larger specimens

© La Palmeraie

Seeds

For good germination results, fresh seed is a necessity. Seeds that can’t be sown straight away are best kept in the frige for better conservation. Seeds harvested by yourself, with fleshy seed coats are best cleaned before conservation to prevent mold grow.

Certain species will have seeds with very tough seed coats (b.e. Musa). You can choose to scrub the end of the seed (scarification) so that the water can penetrate into the seed coat better. It is also adviced to scrub off the inhibators on the seeds coat with a brush.

Soaking the seed

It is advised to soak the seeds before sowing for about 24 – 48 hours in warm water. This wil soften the seed coat and accelerate the overall germination. Therefore, fill a cup with warm water, put in the seeds and cover up with some aluminium foil to conserve the warmth. Place the cup on your central heating or other heat source. A thermos bottle can also be used for this purpose but it may be to smelly to use for normal use afterwards. Renew the water every 12 hours or so.

Ravenala madagascariensis seeds

Sowing

Take a pot and fill up with a layer of quality seed raising mix. Then put your seeds on this mix and cover them with another layer of soil. (On Strelitzia (orange) and Ravenala (blue) you may delete the duvet before).  A good rule is to cover them with a layer as thick as twice their own size. Humidify the soil but do not over water to prevent mold. Then you can cover up with some plastic foil to preserve humidity but ventilate enough to prevent mold grow. Humidify the soil when needed.

Tip: You can perfectly sow multiple seeds in one bigger container, this way you’ll economize space and energy.

Germination

Place the pot on a warm spot, close to a heath source if needed. 25-35°C (77-95°F) will do for most species. For bananas (Musa) a temperature alternation of 9h on 30-35°C followed by 15h on 12-15°C and so on… could be favorable. The seeds do not need any light in this stage. The time required for the seeds to germinate varies form species to species and depends on multiple conditions. Generally it may take from 1,5 to 3 months but also can take for one whole year to germinate. Be patient, just hang on and keep providing the ideal conditions. Do need dig in to see if something happend yet. You will only risk to do damage on the germinating seeds. As soon as the first leaves are showing up you can remove the foil and place the pot elsewhere than on the heath source to avoid the ground from drying to quickly. From this stage on the plant needs sufficient light.

Transplanting

When the seedlings are big (en strong) enough, they can be transplanted. Generally this is when the have their second leaf.  Take a container that is big enough and which has draining holes in the bottom. Use a good quality potting soil and mix in some perlite or grit for optimal drainage.  Do not use (to much) fertilizer yet, to prevent to roots form burning. Now your plant is good to go for a while and only needs to be transplanted again when new roots will grow from the drainage holes in the bottom.

Fertilizing

Add fertilizer in spring and during summer (growing season), during winter this makes little sense. Organic fertilizers are good fertilizers but be careful with non organic fertilizers which are more agressive. Do always respect the manufacturers prescriptions.

Planting

Strelitzia and Ravenala aren’t hardy and must therefor be cultivated in containers in colder climates. Other more cold resistant species may be planted out in open. Do inform yourself on the specific needs and especially on the hardiness and your local climat.

© La Palmeraie

Photos: http://members.quicknet.nl/mija/zaailingen.html and www.palmhunter.be

Common name:
Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelli’, Red false banana

Origin: Eastern edge of the Great African Plateau (high rainfall forests on mountains)

Foliage: banana-like leaf blades of up to 5 m (16 ft) tall by 1 m (3 ft 3 in) wide, on the top varying from green-red/purple and underneath deeply red.

Stem: stout pseudostem

Fruit: white flowers with dry small and non edible bananas (approximately in its 5th year)

Exposure: Full sun, partial shade

Growth rate: Really fast grower

Height: 4 meter / 13 feet

Hardiness: 5°C / 41°F

Culture:

The Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelli’ is only cultivated by tissue culture (in vitro). As a result, they are sold in quite large numbers. They are sometimes even found in the regular garden center. Thanks to this cultivation technique, its price is also very low. When speaking of a “plug” they mean a small seedling. However, due to the high growth rate, such a small seedling grows rapidly into a big plant. The Maurelli can not be sown as it is a natural variation of the regular ventricosum. Seeds will thus only give the green (regular) ventricosum. The chance to obtain a Maurelli this way is only 1 out of 10.000…

This banana doesn’t produce pups in normal circumstances. Only when the main stem is cut down it will produce a lot of pups. These pups can be separated and planted in a container.

Care:

This very fast growing banana is extremely easy in care. Both in pot and in the ground, but is does need enough heat, water and nutrients. Overburden is virtually impossible. The color of the leaves varies from green-vine to purple, depending on the plant’s location. However, the opinions and experiences are divided between whether it is the sun or just the shadow that causes the red color. The Maurelli has a remarkably small root root and can thus remain in a relatively small pot. Because its large leaves catch a lot of wind, however, a larger or heavy pot is highly recommended.

Winter protection:

The Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelli’ is not hardy. Even before the first frost he must be taken inside. The most successful method for this species appears to excavate and keep it completely dry all winter. After pruning all the leaves, the plant must be laid upside down for a while so that all moisture can flow out of the petioles. Afterwards, the plant can be placed in a dry, well-ventilated and frost-free place. No water should be given until spring! In spring, when the temperatures are high enough, the plant can gradually be placed outside again. Only when the Maurelli is growing again,  you can also take up watering as well.

Also see: Hoe bescherm ik mijn bananenplant in de winter?

Use:

Only in Ethiopia is this banana grown for its nutritious tubers. Elsewhere, the Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelli’ is grown mainly for its ornamental value.

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