1.Root pressure

Plants take in nutrients, minerals and moisture through their roots through a process we call osmosis. In short, it comes down to the fact that the roots first absorb nutrients so that the environment in the root cell becomes more saline than the environment outside. This means that the water is sucked into the roots. This water is then fed through the vascular bundle to the leaves. Here the water is then evaporated by the stomata. Normally this process is balanced, but if the roots absorb more water that the plant can evaporate, the root pressure becomes too high. This means that the water does not get enough time to evaporate, but will be immediately pressed out through the water pores (hydathodes) as a droplet. These are special water secretion glands at the leaf tips.

2. Relative humidity

Another cause may be too high air humidity. The saturated air then has insufficient capacity to absorb new water vapor. The water is then evacuated as a droplet rather than vapor. Because the air humidity often rises at night, guttation often occurs in the early morning.

Consequences of guttation

Guttation is not harmful to the plant. The phenomenon protects the plant from excessive root pressure. However, with houseplants the phenomenon can lead to annoying stains on the floor.

Not to be confused with:

Honeydew: a sticky liquid excreted by lice. The liquid is situated over the whole plant rather than only the leaf tips. You should also find lice on your plant.

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We regularly receive questions from concerned enthusiasts about the condition of their palm. And even though it is always difficult to determine the exact cause of the problem (especially on the basis of an explanation alone) we will always be happy to help you with the problem. Since it are usually the same things that return, we have incorporated them in this article.

DIAGNOSIS

Palm species

First of all, it is useful to know what species of palm it concerns. After all, every species requires its own specific care. The species is indicated on the label or, if you don’t have it anymore, you can take a look at our palm trees page. The most common species are also among them.

Care

As soon as you know which species it concerns, you can determine whether the palm gets the correct care. The article “Palm trees care” can help you with this. Look at the origin of the palm for instance. Do you offer the same conditions as the original climate?

History

A bit of background can also be interesting. Has the palm deteriorated since the purchase? Then the cause is probably an incorrect care. Has the palm suddenly deteriorated, then the cause is more likely to be found in a recent event? New location, repotted, plague….

At the nursery

Exotic plants, and palm trees are no exception to this, are gaining in popularity. Many garden centres, sellers and nurseries do offer these plants by default now. Unfortunately, they don’t all have the necessary knowledge to advise you correctly. Always address yourself to experienced enthusiasts for the most appropriate care of your palm.

Palms that are sold for a bargain sometimes do have a reason to be sold as cheap. Not infrequently, these palms have suffered more frost than they can handle. Unfortunately, the symptoms are often only visible much later.

Frequent made errors:

• you didn’t received the correct advice on the appropriate care
• the palm is potted in a container without drainage holes
• the palm is overwatered
• the palm wasn’t exposed to direct sunlight gradually
• the location of the palm is to dark
• the air humidity is to low

Checklist

• appropriate care?
• no visible pests/diseases?
• the new spears (folded new leaves) do not come when pulled slightly between two fingertips?
• the roots are in good condition (white-yellow)?

Treatment

As the treatment of spear rot requires a very specific approach, we wrote a separate article on this subject: “How to treat spear rot”

If you were not able to use this article to solve the problem, you can always contact us using the form below! We will gladly help you.

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By nature many of the palms that we cultivate originate from tropical or subtropical areas. In terms of average temperature, a living room meets the requirements perfectly. Air humidity is often a much greater problem. In this article we discuss how this problem can be tackled easily.

Heating in the living room

The central heating in the living room not only ensures the ideal temperature for you and your exotic plants, but also provides a very dry air. The fact that this was different before the time of central heating systems is proved by the fact that very different houseplants were kept at the time. Nowadays, a fern or ivy in the living room is no longer that common anymore. It is therefore recommended that you pay extra attention to the location and/or use of the heating radiator.

Underfloor heating is a nice alternative. Not only is the heating (and thus also the dry air) much less concentrated on certain places but the warm underground also stimulates the growth of the roots.

Humidify

Spraying the leaves of your palm regularly with a humidifier is of course a possibility. It’s natural, it removes dust on the leaves and creates a good opportunity to take a closer look at the overall condition of your palm. Unfortunately, there are also some disadvantages. Spraying is usually accompanied by the necessary cleaning of your floor afterwards and the palm drips for a while. The effect is also only of short duration because the mist dries up relatively quickly. Spraying repeatedly is therefore a must. Especially in the case of palm trees from a very tropical climate such as the coconut palm.

Water bowls

Another simple but perhaps less aesthetic solution is to place water bowls. The water evaporates and increases humidity locally. You can increase humidity where necessary in a targeted manner. Special trays are sold to hang on the radiator itself, but a own creation will do just as good. A plastic bottle can be cut along the length of the bottle. Place it filled with water on the radiator. You can also put a bowl of water on the potting ground or next to it. The only thing you have to do now is to fill up all the water bowls regularly.

“Island-method”

The most discreet and durable technique for increasing the humidity of the air, where necessary, is so-called island method. The intention is that there will be permanent water in the saucer without the palm being permanently standing in the water because this would cause root rot. It is therefore important that the pot is placed on an elevation to avoid direct contact with the water. For this you can use anything; an inverted smaller saucer (from which the name “island method”), bobbins, stones, gravel,….. The water from the saucer evaporates up along the pot and thus ensures a locally increased humidity. When watering the palm, the excess water runs through the drainage holes in the saucer below it, so that there is always a layer of water in it. If necessary, you can also fill it directly.

And outdoors?

Outside, humidity is absolutely no problem. It rains often enough so we have about the same humidity as in a tropical climate….

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It is without a doubt the question we are asked the most. Whether it concerns palm trees or banana plants, there is often a lot of uncertainty about the correct dosage when it comes to the irrigation. Therefore, we thought it would be useful to devote a special article to this item.

How to water?

Water through the saucer:

This way, the plant can never have too much. After all, roots absorb water as needed, just as they would in the ground with groundwater. Compare it to a cigarette paper partially suspended in water.

Another advantage is that the top layer of the soil remains dry and no fungi or sciarid flies nest there.

For some plants, it is advisable to fill the saucer only once a week so that the saucer can dry in between and the roots do not remain permanently submerged. During the winter months, it is advisable to take even longer breaks, for example every 2 to 3 weeks.

Watering on top of the soil:

Pour water over the entire surface until it begins to flow into the saucer. Take small breaks in between so that the saucer does not overflow.

Some general rules

If the saucer is emptied by the plant within 48 hours at the latest, that’s fine.

If it takes longer, empty the excess and wait a little longer next time.

If the saucer is empty after a few hours, give a little more.

No plant is the same

Unfortunately, this often also applies to the many, of course always well-intended, opinions. It is not uncommon to get very contradictory advice from the local garden centre, the plant label, books or the internet. The reason for this is quite obvious; no plant is the same and this also applies to the conditions in which you keep the plant. After all, it is not only the plant itself that determines its water needs, but a number of other factors are at least as important. And it is precisely these factors that can differ greatly. There is therefore no standard answer to the main question of this article.

Which factors influence water needs?

• plant characteristics
• location
• type of pot/soil
• season

Plant characteristics

Of course, it is important to know the basic needs for general care of your plant to begin with. Some plants prefer to be kept a bit drier, while others do better in more humid soils. The best indication is to check the plants natural habitat. It goes without saying that plants from desert areas are better kept dryer and vice versa.

In addition to the natural needs of the plant, the size of the plant also plays an important role. A large plant with a lot of leaves will evaporate more water than a smaller plant with only a few leaves. Larger plants are also more likely to have a better developed root system, so that water will be absorbed much better. With a smaller plant, the soil will remain wet longer as there are fewer roots for water absorption.

Location – planting place

In addition to the characteristics of the plant itself, the location also plays a very important role. For instance, plants outdoors require a different approach than plants indoors. Outside the plants are exposed to sun and wind, but also to rain or drought. The wind in particular can cause a strong increase of evaporation. Plants in pots also need more water than plants in the open because the potting soil can dry out faster. Indoors, the conditions are much more stable, so you will quickly discover a fixed pattern in the needs of your plant.

Type of pot/soil

The type of pot has an important influence on the water requirements of your plant. Stone pots (pottery) does evaporate moisture through the side walls, which causes the soil to dry out faster. However, with this kind of pots you can see by the color difference where the soil is still wet. This makes it a little easier to assess the need. In plastic containers, the soil remains slightly wetter because moisture can only evaporate through the top layer. So choose the type of pot consciously and use their characteristics to your advantage!

The type of potting soil can also play a role. There are many different types of potting soil available on the market with different water retention characteristics.

Season

Finally, it is also important to take into account the season. Most plants need a resting period which starts in the autumn when the days shorten and the temperature falls. This will also lead to a sharp drop in water needs. In spring, the plants start to grow again and the irrigation may be gradually increased.

Banana plants, quite different!

The explanation in the article does not only relate to palms, but actually applies to all plants. Banana plants, however, are an exception to the rule. After all, these plants are largely made up of water (80%). They also have a large leaf area. This makes them evaporate a lot of moisture on sunny and/or windy days. They therefore need a lot of water! However, this only applies to banana plants that grow well. As long as there is no growth, they should be kept dryer to prevent root rot. In the winter, they hibernate and need much less water. In this period, more banana plants encounter problems due to too much water than too little. Some species do not even need water at all during the whole winter season (e. g. Ensete).

Measuring

So there is no standard answer to the question “how much water does my palm tree/banana plant need”. Of course, there are ways to control the water needs of your plant. The easiest way is to check the humidity of the soil by inserting a finger in the potting soil. After all, the surface dries out quickly due to direct contact with the air, but just below the conditions can be very different. So feel a finger deep to control. If the soil sticks to your finger, the soil is still moist and a new irrigation will not be needed immediately.

There are also so-called humidity meters. These devices are not expensive (about €7, -) and are sold in the local garden centre. This sensor allows you to check the humidity a lot deeper and more accurately than with your finger. You will be amazed at how wet the potting soil will be a lot deeper! However, a humidity meter should not remain permanently in the pot and must be cleaned thoroughly after each use to prolong its service life. Instead of a humidity meter you can of course also use a long knitting pen or a bamboo stick, etc., but be careful of the roots.

At last

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“NPK 6-4-6 with micronutrients” indicated on the packaging. But what does this actually mean?

Which type of soil?

Whether a plant needs to be fertilized, what quantity, what product and when depends largely on the type of soil. In the garden plants are normally much less dependent on additional fertilizer application, since by decomposition new nutrients are constantly added. However, sandy soil does not retain nutrients as well because it rinses out faster. In sandy soil it is therefore wise to fertilize more often than in clay soil.

In pots there is a need for fertilization. Otherwise, the soil will soon be depleted. Good potting soil often contains fertilizer for a certain period of time. This is clearly stated on the packaging. Fertiliser must be applied afterwards.

When to fertilize?

The exact need is of course different per plant. Nevertheless, the instructions on the packaging of the fertilizer do provide good help. As a rule, fertilisation should only be applied during the growing season (April-October). Liquid fertilizer gives a quicker effect but also rinses out quickly. This should therefore be administered more often. In the case of granular organic fertilizer, the effect is much more durable and can be applied again when the granules are completely dissolved.

Which fertilizer to give?

In addition to the choice of liquid (useful for container plants) and organic fertilizer (useful for outdoor use) it is of course the type of plant that determines which fertilizer is most suitable. Producers cleverly respond to this by developing special fertilizers for each type of plant. The main difference is the “NPK” ratio.

Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium

The N stands for nitrogen, the P for phosphorus and the K stands for pottasium.

NITROGEN (N)

• What does it do? Growth of leaves and stems. Needed for photosynthesis. Flushes out relatively quickly.
• Deficiency? Yellowing of the lower leaves, slower growth.
• Excess? Extended and/or vigorous growth, focus on foliage production instead of flowering, more vulnerable to disease.
• Durability? Flush out relatively quickly. At lower temperatures and in the event of a lack of oxygen, nitrogen absorption is limited. A loose top layer is therefore necessary.

We use: blood meal

PHOSPHORUS (P)

• What does it do? Stimulates the production/growth and maturation of fruits and seeds.
• Deficiency? Leaf not bright green but rather dark colored.
• Excess? Limits the absorption of other useful nutrients.
• Durability? Does not flush out quickly but is more difficult to absorb.

We use: bone meal

POTASSIUM (K)

• What does it do? Good for the resistance of the plant, water absorption and the production of new materials and production of flowers and fruits.
• Deficiency? Brown leaf edges, curly and/or falling leaves.
• Excess? Difficulties to absorb magnesium. No normal growth.
• Durability? The need for potassium is greater, especially in dryer weather.

We use: kelp meal

MICRONUTRIENTS:

Since the risk of a lack of minerals is rather small, we only treat the most important ones.

Magnesium (Mg) & Iron (Fe)

• What does it do? Ensures deep green leaf color.
• Deficiency? Yellow leaves, beginning from the veins.
• Excess? Limits the absorption of other useful nutrients.
• Durability? Rinses out faster on sandy ground.

We use: Kieserite

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After buying or receiving a plant, the plant often has to be repotted. During cultivation and transport, the plants are kept in relatively small pots for economic reasons. But which pot size can be used? In this article we give you some tips.

Different container sizes

It is certainly a familiar feeling, all those different sizes and models of pots in your local garden center, often a large shelf full, but which pot is the right one? For plants sold through webshops, the pot size is often described as code C1.5 or P9, for instance.

The “C” means container, the number refers to the volume in liters. A C10 therefor means a 10L container.

The “P” means pot, the number refers to its size in centimeters. A P9 is therefor a 9×9 cm pot.

A complete summary:

Which type of container to use?

Each type of pot has its own specific qualities. For instance, plastic pots retain moisture longer and are much lighter. Stone pots (pottery) are more breathable and the water can evaporate through the material. These pots are however a lot heavier, certainly once filled with potting soil. The choice depends on your personal taste, possibly in combination with the needs of the plant. The most important thing is that in any case, the pot also contains drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. In plastic ornamental pots, there are often notches provided so that you can drill the holes yourself. If you want to use a pot without holes, place the plant in a slightly smaller plastic container and put it into that closed pot. This way you can still throw away the excess of water.

Take care when pots have an overhanging edge or are shaped like a pyramid. These shapes can make it extremely difficult or impossible to re-pot the plant afterwards when the pot is filled with roots.

Also keep in mind that some plants can literally break a pot once well rooted. For instance, the Strelitzia is known for this.

Which size to use?

There is no real rule for the size pot to use. Usually one or a few sizes larger is sufficient. The overall appearance must be right. A pot too big is just as strange as a pot too small. Only use a very large pot with plants that also grow very quickly. Not only does it look very strange otherwise, the water management in a pot that is too big is also more difficult to control and the potting soil can rather become moldy. Plants with large leaves or on stems quickly tend to blow in pots. A slightly larger / heavier pot can be a solution for this. Large pot sizes are more difficult to find. In the garden centre you will normally manage to find large black containers with handles. These may not be the most beautiful, but they are the most practical when the plant needs to be moved from time to time. When choosing a pot, remember that palms like to root deeply. Height is therefore especially important. Succulents, on the other hand, root superficial but but more widely. So the depth there is less important. At specialized webshops you can find narrow tall grow pots for palm trees. These offer enough depth for the pen root and require little space.

However, at a certain point in time, you will reach a maximum. After all, a pot that is too big can be too heavy to be able to move around easily. In that case, the plant can be perfectly grown in this maximum pot size as long as the potting soil is changed regularly. This can be done by replacing the top layer of potting soil annually.

© La Palmeraie (last photo www.hartcanna.com)

A palm tree appeals to the imagination of many. Moreover, they are more and more often offered for sale. It is therefore not surprising that more and more people are buying a palm. But what should you pay attention to when you buy a palm? In this article we will give you tips!

First impression

As is often the case, when buying a palm the first impression is important. Not only should the palm itself look beautiful and healthy, also the environment and the seller can often tell you more about the possible condition of the plant. Preferably there are several specimens so you can compare and select the most beautiful ones.

Characteristics of each species

After the “love on first sight”, it is time for reflection. Can you really offer the right conditions? For instance, some tropical palms require very high humidity, something that is difficult to achieve indoors. Be honestly realistic with yourself to avoid disappointment. Sometimes a relatively low price can make it worth a try and consider the palm as an annual. The coconut palm (Cocos nucifera) is here a good example as it probably won’t last that long but it only costs a few quid.

Price

As mentioned above, price also plays an important role in considering a purchase. Remember that the price of specialized nurseries is often the best. An additional advantage is that you will also have the right advice. But also many hobbyists regularly sell their surpluses. For instance, inform yourself on dedicated forums.

Inspection

Your decision is made? You want this palm? Then you should check the following points;

Foliage:

• Does the palm have beautiful green and shiny leaves?

Yellow leaves can indicate malnutrition. Brown leaves indicate damage due to inappropriate care.

• Are the leaf segments of the oldest leaves well deployed?

Folded leaf segments indicate a problem with water absorption.

• Are the leaves not contaminated with spider mite, scale insects, greenflies or mealybug?

These pests are mainly located on the underside of the leaf. Honeydew often betrays the presence of lice.

• Do you see any new emerging leaves?

This is a good thing because some palms grow very slowly.

Trunk:

• Does the stem look good, without damage or holes?

Holes may indicate traces of insect larvae. Very harmful to the palm but also very contagious for other palms.

Roots:

• Does the palm have a well rooted root ball?

Lift the palm out of its pot to check this. Healthy roots are white-yellow colored. When it is practically impossible to lift the palm out of its pot, you could push the trunk. Is the palm sturdy in its pot or rather loosely? In this last case, the palm has not yet created enough roots since it was dug out at the nursery. Bigger dug out palms are often held in place by some wooden strips fixed on top in the container. Such palms may have more trouble to settle.

• Is the palm planted in good quality potting soil?

Also look several cm’s/inches under the surface! Some nurseries cover thick clay with a layer of good quality soil.

Well rooted root ball!

Poorly rooted and clay potted root ball

If you always carefully check the above, you are already well started to enjoy a beautiful palm for a long time!

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The Aloe vera is a popular ‘miracle plant’ that has been used as a medicine since ancient times. The name’ aloè’ comes from Greek and means bitter. This refers to the juice of the leaves that is nowadays used in many cosmetics products. In this article you will not only read the background but also how you can propagate this plant yourself!

Origin

The Aloe originates mainly from South Africa, where the larger species often dominate the landscape. However, a number of species are also found in other parts of Africa and Southwest Asia. The Aloe vera is also common in America, but is probably imported and has run wild.

Use

Aloe is used for the most diverse purposes and are therefore sometimes described as a “miracle plant”. For instance, this plant is used as a painkiller, laxative, anti-malaria, skin care, balsam, against small burns, pimples, cleft skin, eczema…. The possibilities seem endless. When you cut the leaves at the base, you get juice. This can be used as a light laxative agent (in small quantities). If you break the leaf and cut it open in length, you will find the famous gel for external use.

Care

Aloe grows best in a grainy well-drained soil. It goes without saying that Aloe does not need a lot of water. The larger species require wide pots to give space to the heavy root system. After all, a succulent does not form a deep going, but a broad superficial root system. In the warm summer months the Aloe can certainly be place outside. The leaves can turn greenish red in contact to the sun.

Propagation

Aloe can be sown, but it is much easier to multiply Aloe by cutting off a offshoot (formed at the base of the mother plant).

Let the offshoot dry for a couple of days.

Pot the offshoot again afterwards in a well drained potting soil. Do not over water nor let the soil dry out completely. After a couple of weeks the offshoot will start to grow again.

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Banana plants are gaining popularity. Understandably, because this vast group of tropical plants gives an exotic look to your garden or living room. This article discusses the basic aspects of general care.

Banana or Musa?

Two names for the same plant. Or actually not entirely. Hobbyists would say “Musa” when talking about a “banana”, which is the scientific name. But actually the group is bigger. The Ensete, Musella, Canna, Strelitzia (paradise bird flower) and Ravenala belong also to this family. This article’s advice generally applies to all these species.

Anatomy

Before we discuss care, it is useful to know a little more about the anatomy of a banana plant. Banana plants have pseudo-stems from which every new leaf is pushed up from the center. This new leaf unfolds only completely when the entire leaf has emerged from the pseudo-stem. In most species, the leaf is thin enough to be damaged by the wind, causing older leaves to be often torn apart. Furthermore, bananas form rhizomes. From these rhizoems new pups are formed which will show up at the foot of the “mother plant”. These pups can be cut off nicely to be planted separately. When the mother plant is cut to the ground, one of these pups will take over.

There are so called sword pups and water pups. A sword pup is initially narrower, more pointed and grows faster and will eventually bear more fruit. A water pup has the typical wide banana leaves right from the beginning. This type of pup is a weaker plant, grows slower than the sword pup, develops roots less quickly, and therefore remains dependent on the mother plant. For this reason, water pups are usually removed in professional plantations.

left; sword pup, right; water pup

Flowering

Most asked question is whether or not bananas will be effectively formed. In many cases, the answer is “yes”. Indeed, some species even form edible bananas. Of course, a flower must first be formed. A banana usually only flowers after 3 to 4 years. So you will need to keep it for that long successfully especially during wintertime. For this we refer to our article on the winter protection of banana plants.

CARE

Light

A banana plant especially needs a lot of light. A dark corner in the living room usually leads to disappointments. It is best to put the plant near a window or outside on the terrace. Avoid direct sunlight because the leaves can burn. If you want to place the plant in the full sun, the banana plant will have to get used to the sun slowly. To do this, you will slowly increase the amount of hours with direct sunshine. New leaves formed in direct sunlight do not have sunburn problems.

Heath

In addition to light, the banana also needs a lot of heat for optimal growth. Hardy banana plants are becoming more and more popular, but the hardiness only counts for the corms! Under the 5 ° C the banana plant will not grow. At -2 ° C the leaves will be lost.

Water

Of course, a banana plant also needs water. Lots of water even! Certainly during hot summer days. A big subject can easily evaporate 10L of water on warm days. Please provide as much water as possible but do not leave the plant roots permanently in water to prevent root rot. During the winter months the water supply must be drastically screwed back.

also see: How much water does my palm tree or banana plant need?

Fertilizer

Banana plants can grow very fast. Especially when they get enough fertilizers. Too much is virtually impossible. In principle, all kinds of fertilizers will do. During the winter months the use of fertilizer isn’t needed.

As a container plant or directly in the garden

Certain (hardy) species can be planted well directly in the garden. During winter months, you will need to take the necessary precautions if you want to plant the plant to successfully survive the winter. In the garden the plant will grow faster than when cultivated in a container.

Pruning

Banana plants do not really nee to be pruned. However, for aesthetical reasons, you can prune the old-dried leaves. You can also remove pups regularly if you prefer an individual subject instead of a group of plants. When you cut the stem, by example when the plant has frost damage, the plant will start to grow again from this place in many cases.

Diseases

Basically, banana plants are not very prone to pests or diseases. Most of the problems occur during the winter months. The most common problems are spider mites, aphids or rotting due to wet soil. The first two pests are best treated as soon as possible with a suitable pest control. Rotting can only be prevented by providing a dry soil. The rotten parts are best cut away as soon as possible.

This article gives you an overview of the basic principles of banana plant care. Of course, care can vary slightly by species. Therefore, please inform yourself of the specific requirements or contact us.

© La Palmeraie

There are many different types of palms. These all ask their own specific care depending on their original habitat. A little bit of studying might be a good way to get good results. First, look at the palm’s needs. Can you meet these? A good example is the Cocos nucifera. This species is often found for just a couple of Pennies, even in malls! However, this tropical palm requires a very high temperature and humidity. Something that only can be found in an conservatory or bathroom. In many households, therefore, they only have a few months to live and then die of slowly. But keeping palms in our climate is definitely possible. This article deals with the basic aspects that will make the culture of most palms successful!

Temperature

Most palm trees grow naturally in a tropical climate. So beside from some exceptions, such as Trachycarpus, it is obvious that palms prefer a warm environment. In the warmer months of the year, palms can be held outside on the terrace. However, before the first frost kicks in, they must be placed inside again. Also note that the temperature is affected by several factors. For example, a place in the full wind will soon be a few degrees cooler while the temperatures can rise easily on a sheltered spot against a south wall.

Light

Like any plant, palms also need light. Even extra I might say because the light intensity in their natural habitat is also often high. Palms kept too dark make longer, finer leaves on long, thin petioles. Literally searching for light. But there are also species that are more suitable for darker places. The Kentia palm (Howea) is the best known example. For a good result, it is therefore important to adjust the its place to the natural needs of the palm.

Pay attention to direct sunlight! Certainly young palms that have always been kept inside should not be put in full sun directly or the leaves would burn. To avoid this, you need to get used to leaves to the sunshine just like our skin. First, you give a place in full shade en then gradually increase the amount of sunshine hours during a week of 2-3. Leaves that were formed in full sun will resist right away to the sun.

Water

One of the hardest things in plant care is the water supply. You should certainly must not over water but you don’t want to give too little as well. But, you can easily check whether watering is needed or not just by feeling with a finger a few centimeters deep in the potting soil. If the soil feels dry there, watering is desirable. Just looking at the soil does not give a good impression as the top dries out much faster in contact with the air. In addition, you must also take into account the location. In the full sun on a hot summers day, a palm evaporates many liters of water. Watering more often is then definitely recommended. A windy place will also increase the evaporation. During the winter months, growth is almost absent and water needs are therefore more limited. In the saucer, there must be no water left to avoid root rot. But also the pot in which the palm is cultivated is important. A stone pot absorbs and evaporates the water much faster, which also causes the soil to be drier. A plastic pot however keeps the moisture. Therefore, it is best to make a conscious choice for the type of pot when transplanting the palm.

also see: How much water does my palm tree or banana plant need?

Rain

Of course, it can rain quite a bit in our climate. In principle, this does not pose a problem for your palm as long as the excess of water can flow away sufficiently from the bottom of the pot. For longer rain periods, it may be advisable to temporarily remove the saucer. There is no need for extra care when speaking about palms planted in the garden. The rain should be absorbed in and flow away easily in the soil.

Air humidity

In their natural tropical environment, palms mostly have a high air humidity. When the palm is kept outside during the summer months, this aspect will not be a problem. It rains sufficiently in our climate so the humidity is high enough for the palm. But when it comes to the winter months when the palm is kept inside it becomes a bit more difficult. In most of our homes, the central heating system makes the air very dry. The leaves will dry out and, moreover, the palm becomes more sensitive to pests like spinning mites! You can counteract this by regularly spraying the foliage (not the stem!) with water.

also see: Air humidity too low? This is how you solve it!

Potting soil

For good results, use a good potting soil as well. DCM® by exemple, has special potting soil for palm trees. In addition, it is important to provide adequate drainage. The pot must therefore be provided with drainage holes. Also, lava rock or grid can be mixed with the potting soil for good water drainage.

Fertilization

Provide enough fertilizer during spring and summer which is the growing season. In winter this makes little sense. Dry organic fertilizers can be handy for long term fertilizing but the may have to much of an odeur for in house use. Liquid fertilizers for palms or green houseplants will also do. The growth will be faster and your plant will be healthier. But don’t over do with fertilizer! In any case, respect the prescribed dosages!

© La Palmeraie