If you only have a balcony at your disposal, there is certainly no reason not to keep exotic plants. There are plenty of possibilities. And even if there are certain restrictions, a balcony often has some advantages as well. On this picture you see our first “own garden”! In this article we already give some useful tips.

Atmosphere!

Because the balcony is usually clearly visible from the house, it is important that the balcony radiates an inviting atmosphere. This can easily be achieved by paying attention to a few details.

For instance, always use the same pots or containers so that it looks more consistent.

Also decorate the balcony with a table and chairs, a garden bench or sitting area. With a lantern, candles or possibly a suitable statue you can finalize it.

With a reed mat or bamboo fence a boring wall or balcony fence can also be covered or a waste container can be neatly hidden. That is not only more enjoyable, it also provides more privacy.

Make sure you have evergreen plants so that it is still worthwhile during the winter.

Keep in mind the growth of the plants. Some species quickly become too big. In terms of palms, Trachycarpus is therefore not recommended. Rather opt for a Chamaerops that remains much smaller but can still get a considerable size.

With a small pond you can easily add some life. There exist ready-to-use water falls, but you can also create a mini-pond yourself with a wine barrel.

By using hanging baskets or hanging pots on the wall you create depth. There are special cloths for the wall to create a vertical garden.

Herbs and certain vegetables are perfectly suited for growing in smaller containers. This way the garden is also useful for the kitchen!

Chamaerops humilis; growth in 4 years

© La Palmeraie

Of course, keeping exotic plants does not have to be limited exclusively to the garden. Exotic plants can also be kept in the living room. In this article we give some recommendations and points of attention. This way you can also enjoy exotic plants without a garden or extend the exotic garden to the living room.

Emplacement

Plants obviously need light. Lots of light! Even places that seem light enough for the human eye are often too dark for plants. Only a few plant species that naturally also occur as undergrowth in dark places will do well a little further away in the living room. In general, the place right next to a window is not an unnecessary luxury. Normally the glass filters all harmful radiation and there is little or no risk of burning. Be careful with any radiators that are placed close by. These provide a very dry air with an increased risk of spider mite. Floor heating is less problematic, especially when you water via the saucer (more about this later).

Which plant?

By paying some attention to the plant choice, you not only avoid disappointments but also prevent an unsuitable plant from wasting away and then appearing ugly in the living room.

A suitable plant can withstand the limited amount of light (relative to outdoors), the constant room temperature (also in the dark winter months) and the relatively dry air.

Because houses used to be much more draughty and only partially heated by a stove or fire, other plants were common than nowadays.  Ferns, for instance, used to be very common as houseplants, but nowadays they are far from easy to keep.

Some very suitable plants for the living room:

palms:

• Chamaedorea-species (Chamaedorea elegans, Chamaedorea radicalis,…)
• Dypsis lutescens (the popular “Areca”)
• Howea forsteriana (the well known “Kentia”, also suitable for the more darker emplacements)
• Phoenix roebelenii (if placed colder during the winter months)

Howea forsteriana, Dypsis lutescens, Phoenix roebelenii

bananas & relatives:

• Musa acumunita ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (most sold banana plant, often sold under names as; Musa nana, Musa tropicana,…)
• Strelitzia reginae ( if placed colder during the winter months for new blossoming)
• Strelitzia nicolai
• Alocasia-species (Alocasia calidora, Alocasia portadora,…)

Musa acumunita ‘Dwarf Cavendish’, Strelitzia reginae, Alocasia macrorrhiza

other exotics:

• Monstera deliciosa
• Ficus elastica
• Fatsia japonica
• Calathea-soorten
• succulents (Aloe, Agave,…)

Monsteria deliciosa

Some unsuitable plants for the living room:

palms & relatives:

• Trachycarpus-species
• Cocos nucifera (the very popular Coconut)
• Cycas revoluta (needs more light)

bananas & relatives:

• Musa basjoo
• Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelli’
• Heliconia-species
• Colocasia-species

other:

• bamboo (air too dry indoors)

Of course this overview is not complete, it only gives an idea! As always, the place of origin gives a good idea of what the plant requires. Plants from typical tropical areas will suffer from too dry air indoors, e.g. for Heliconias. Some plants also need a cool winter. Sometimes for stimulating new blooming such as the Strelitzia for instance, others because of the combination of high temperature and short, dark days that confuse them, such as the Phoenix roebelenii for instance.

Watering

Many of the problems with indoor plants are caused by unadjusted watering (often too much!). Be sure to watch our instruction video and give as much as possible via the saucer. Not only does the water evaporate alongside the plant for an improved humidity, but this way you also avoid the annoying sciarid flies that otherwise reproduce in the moist potting soil.

Alternatives

If you do not have a single suitable place in the house, there are still some possibilities. For instance, with a paludarium you can imitate a mini climate. You can also make a mini garden to put on the table.

paludarium

oa. Biophytum sensitivum

© La Palmeraie

Our website no longer only enjoys support in northern Europe, but also attracts enthusiasts from all over the world. Very nice of course, but the typical information about cultivating palms and other tropical plants in the cold and wet climate of Northern Europe does not always apply. Because there are apparently not many clear sources of information to be found cultivation of tropical plants in warmer regions, in this article we provide some tips and good sources of information.

USDA zone

The USDA zone is a useful starting point for growing exotic plants and palm trees in warmer regions. This way you can compare your own zone with the zone of the original habitat of a certain plant or check if there are certain zones with a similar climate. For instance, not much information can be found about the cultivation of palm trees in North Africa (Morocco, etc.), but there is a lot of information about these plants in Southern California where the climate is almost identical!

Plants that naturally only occur in a certain region are likely to experience difficulties in cooler regions. For example, the Ravenala madagascariensis which does not occur in USDA zones <10. On the other hand, there are also species that have a harder time in warm climates. The Trachycarpus fortunei does better in cold areas and you will hardly see this palm in USDA zones >9.

More information about USDA zones can be found in this article.

Botanical gardens

Local botanical gardens also provide an interesting source of information! In almost every country there are such initiatives to be found and it is the place par excellence to discover all kinds of non-indigenous plants and to see what is possible locally as well.

Often the diversity of the common plants in the area is quite monotonous despite the fact that all sorts of species can be grown. For instance, in Andalousie and North Africa it is mainly Washingtonia, Phoenix and Syagrus that you come across, while many more beautiful palm species may be perfectly grown!

La Concepción Jardín Botánico-Historico de Málaga which is also very active through social media

Interesting sources

All articles and recommendations on this site are given on the basis of personal experiences. When it comes to growing palms and exotic species in warmer climates, this is obviously more tricky. General principles do of course apply in terms of water needs and winter care but with slightly different accents.

On the following sites you will find interesting information about many specific palm varieties and their characteristics:

Trebrown Nursery – UK Hardy Palm Trial Results : overview of species with concrete experiences in terms of minimum temperatures (English)

Palmasur – Palmeras y jardines : overview of species with all characteristics adapted to the Mediterranean climate (Spanish, French, English)

Palmpedia – Palms for California: very complete overview of possible species with all characteristics and experiences (English)

© La Palmeraie

Jardin Majorelle – Marrakesh dd 2017

Monstera deliciosa

Dypsis decaryi

Hotel La Mamounia – Marrakech

La Concepción Jardín Botánico-Historico – Málaga dd 2018

Roystonea regia

Acoelorrhaphe wrightii

Phoenix sylvestris

Phoenix dactylifera

Some time ago we got a question about this phenomenon; the Cycas revoluta showed a strange kind of nodules at the bottom of the caudex. The question was of course whether this is normal or harmful to the plant.

Well known bacteria

La Palmeraie ©

The Rubber tree or “Ficus elastica” is a popular plant. This climbing plant with large and rubber-like leaves forms an elegant appearance that requires little space. The care is also relatively simple. This plant needs steadiness and regularity. Water it regularly and do not twist or move it. The leaves would also have an air-cleaning capacity, which makes it functional in rooms where people smoke.

The Rubber tree

Originally, the Ficus comes from Asia (India, Java, Malasia). It grows into a big tree with many aerial roots. The common name (rubber tree) is not correct. The real tree used for commercial rubber production is a different tree, the Hevea brasiliensis. The white juice of the Ficus elastic is also latex-like but is not used for rubber production.

In pot culture it remains smaller, which means that it is generally found here as one undivided stem. It is only in the long run that the plant will form multiple branches. This process can be forced by cutting the top out of the plant.

Several varieties of the Rubber tree are available on the market, ranging from a uniform dark green large leaf such as the Ficus elastica ‘Robusta’ to the multi-colored Ficus elastica ‘Tineke’.

Multiplication

Air layering technique

Step 1

Remove some leaves at the base of a branch.
Beware of the white poisonous juice that will seep directly out of the wound.

Step 2

Cut through the stem for only two thirds between two nodes (where the cut leaves were on the stem). Gently bend the cut and insert a match in between so that the two sides of the wound no longer touch each other. Take care not to break down the stem completely. Support the stem if necessary. Please be careful for the juice again!

Step 3

Wrap the wound with moist sphagnum moss and wrap it with plastic. Close the plastic at both ends.

Step 4

Regularly check that the moss is still moist enough and moisten when needed. The root formation can also be controlled in the same time. This process may take some time.This time it took us 14 weeks. When a few roots are formed, the next step can be followed.

Step 5

Cut off the stem under the newly formed roots. Pay attention to the poisonous juice.

Step 6

Remove a few leaves on the bottom of the stem and pot the stem in good potting soil. You may also add soil improvement as Perlite and root stimulators.

Step 7

Keep the soil only slightly moist until the plant grows again. Only then you may gradually increase the watering.

© La Palmeraie

The Aloe vera is a popular ‘miracle plant’ that has been used as a medicine since ancient times. The name’ aloè’ comes from Greek and means bitter. This refers to the juice of the leaves that is nowadays used in many cosmetics products. In this article you will not only read the background but also how you can propagate this plant yourself!

Origin

The Aloe originates mainly from South Africa, where the larger species often dominate the landscape. However, a number of species are also found in other parts of Africa and Southwest Asia. The Aloe vera is also common in America, but is probably imported and has run wild.

Use

Aloe is used for the most diverse purposes and are therefore sometimes described as a “miracle plant”. For instance, this plant is used as a painkiller, laxative, anti-malaria, skin care, balsam, against small burns, pimples, cleft skin, eczema…. The possibilities seem endless. When you cut the leaves at the base, you get juice. This can be used as a light laxative agent (in small quantities). If you break the leaf and cut it open in length, you will find the famous gel for external use.

Care

Aloe grows best in a grainy well-drained soil. It goes without saying that Aloe does not need a lot of water. The larger species require wide pots to give space to the heavy root system. After all, a succulent does not form a deep going, but a broad superficial root system. In the warm summer months the Aloe can certainly be place outside. The leaves can turn greenish red in contact to the sun.

Propagation

Aloe can be sown, but it is much easier to multiply Aloe by cutting off a offshoot (formed at the base of the mother plant).

Let the offshoot dry for a couple of days.

Pot the offshoot again afterwards in a well drained potting soil. Do not over water nor let the soil dry out completely. After a couple of weeks the offshoot will start to grow again.

© La Palmeraie

1. Sowing

The best famous way to grow plants is undoubtedly to propagate from seed. This method is ideal for palm trees, bananas* and exotic species. All you need is fresh seed, a warm spot and usually a lot of patience. After all, many exotics only sprout within 1 to 3 months and sometimes even much longer. Detailed sowing manuals for palms and exotic species can be found on our website.

(* Musa basjoo excepted. This variety cannot be propagated from seed.)

2. Dividing roots

In this technique, the root ball of the old plant is divided into several pieces, which are then replanted. This can easily be done by digging out the plant and cutting the roots. Each piece must always contain sufficient roots and a few stems. This method is very suitable for propagating exotic species such as bamboo, Canna and bananas.

3. Cutting offshoots

A number of exotic species form offshoots; young plants at the foot of the mother plant. A well-known example of this are bananas and Aloe vera. You can carefully remove these young plants and transplant them. It is important to leave enough roots on the young plant so that the shoot itself can take care of its water management and will not dry out immediately. It is best to use a knife to cut the root as close to the mother plant as possible. The larger the offshoot, the more roots are already formed. For bananas, it is best to wait until the offshoot is about 50 cm (1 ft 7 in) in size. You can then transplant the young shoot.

The rhizome formation is stimulated by cutting off the offshoots above ground (figure: 1). By cutting off the offshoot from the mother plant (figure: 2) the growth is inhibited and the offshoot can be planted out somewhere else.

© La Palmeraie
(source first photo: palmhunter)

Like other exotic plants, tree ferns also need a winter protection. Because it is almost impossible to create a separate description for each species, you will find here a general description.

Dicksonia

The most common species among enthusiasts is the Dicksonia antarctica. This is one of the simplest tree ferns to cultivate. The Dicksonia antarctica can survive for a short period of time up to -8°C/-10°C (17,6-14°F) (night frost) without specific protection. If temperatures below -6°C (21,2°F) are predicted for a longer period of time, it is recommended to protect it. The Dicksonia antarctica loses its leaves (become brown) at temperatures colder than -8°C/-10°C (17,6-14°F) or when the leaves are directly exposed to snow or ice.

Protecting the tree fern can be done in various ways.

Wrapping

Frost-protected

You can also leave the Dicksonia antarctica somewhere frost-free to overwinter between 0°C and 8°C (32-46,4°F). Make sure that the stem and growth point do not dry out during the winter. Especially if there is additional heating. This is forgotten by many, who than still lose their tree fern after all.

The Dicksonia fibrosa and Dicksonia sellowiana resist up to -6°C/-8°C  (21,2-17,6°F). The will need protection when persistent temperatures below -5°C (23°F) are announced. Leaves are damaged by temperatures below  -4°C/-6°C (24,8-21,2°F) or when the leaves are directly exposed to snow or ice.

The Dicksonia squarrosa and Dicksonia youngiae resist up to -3°C/-5°C (26,6-23°F). Keeping thesespecies outside during winter requires a lot of attention simply for the fact that these species are quickly affected by drying out. The heart of the stem is hollow in these species and the plant has almost no buffer. It is therefore very important that they do not dry out during the winter. Both species will have leaf damage at temperatures below -2°C/-4°C (28,4-24,8°F) or when the leaves are directly exposed to snow or ice.

Cyathea

Cyatheas (only the most hardy species within this genus) can be kept outside during winter but only with sufficient protection. It will therefor be needed to well wrap it and heat with an external heat source. Cyatheas will show leaf damage at temperatures below -2°C/-4°C (28,4-24,8°F) or when the leaves are directly exposed to snow or ice. Only exception is the Cyathea australis which should be as hardy as the Dicksonia antarctica.

Even better is to keep the Cyathea protected from frost at 0°C and 8°C (32-46,4°F). The more tropical species need to be kept between 6°C and 12°C (21,2-53,6°F). This way they will conserve their foliage and will still be very neat in spring. Do not forget to keep them moist during all this time when temperatures will allow.

Watergift

During the winter months, the tree ferns naturally consume less moisture due to the low temperature. However, this does not mean that the tree fern should dry out. Water once a week is recommended. However, the plant should not be too wet neither. The most important thing about wintering is therefore the prevention of drying out and that the protection does not allow too much moisture to evaporate.

Text by TropiRo
Illustrations by Eduard

© La Palmeraie

In this article, a Dutch hobbyist Eduard shows how to easily take of runners from the Alocasia (Elephants ear). The plant used in this article is a Alocasia macrorrhiza but the method can be applied to all Alocasia species. He is using this method on this plant for years now and can harvest up to 6 runners every year.

Step 1

Step 2

The plant is taken out of the pot and as much soil as possible is gently removed from the roots.

Step 3

Small new plants are broken of the tubercule in the way that only the main tubercule remains. We can even see a new plant which can be taken of next time. In the pot he also found some small independent tubercules.

Step 4

Every plant which has its own roots is potted again. This time they had already developed a lot of roots but even with less the will survive. The small independent tubercules were potted into the same pot as the mother plant.

Photos: Eduard
© La Palmeraie

Originally from Madagascar, the Ravenala is currently planted worldwide in tropical areas. As a result, this special exotic reminds inevitably of holidays. The common name “Travelers tree” is due to the myth that travelers would survive due to the accumulated moisture in the leaf bases. But in view of the height and its impurity, this seems unlikely. The Ravenala is rarely proposed for sale in Europe. The particular seeds with blue fringes, on the other hand, can be found more easily. However, cultivating this species is not so simple. Here’s a manual how we succeeded!

Ravenala description

The mature plant consists of a stem with a bundle of large leaves on long leaf stems arranged in a fan shape. A mature subject can grow up to 18 meters (59ft) with leaves up to 3 meters (9 ft) long! At a younger stage, when it hasn’t developed a stem yet, it has more resemblance to the Strelitzia, which is also part of the same genus (Strelitziaceae). The Ravenala likes a sunny, sheltered location so that the large leaves do not tear apart by the wind. Like the banana, the Ravenala needs a lot of water. This fast grower isn’t hardy at all and needs the be kept above 15°C (59°F).

Cultivating: step by step

Seeds

For good germination results, fresh seed is a necessity. Do not hesitate to contact the seller and ask for more details about the harvesting date.

Soaking the seeds

It is advised to soak the seeds before sowing for about 24 – 48 hours in warm water. This wil soften the seed coat and accelerate the overall germination. Therefore, fill a cup with warm water, put in the seeds and cover up with some aluminium foil to conserve the warmth. Place the cup on your central heating or other heat source. A thermos bottle can also be used for this purpose but it may be to smelly to use for normal use afterwards. Renew the water every 12 hours or so.

Sowing

Take a pot and fill up with a layer of quality seed raising mix. Then put your seeds on this mix and cover them with another layer of soil. The typical blue fringes must be removed from the seeds. A good rule is to cover them with a layer as thick as twice their own size. Humidify the soil but do not over water to prevent mold. Then you can cover up with some plastic foil to preserve humidity but ventilate enough to prevent mold grow. Place the pot somewhere warm, like on top of the central heating system. Humidify the soil when needed.

It is unnecessary to increase the house temperature. When the house is heated normally, the temperature right above the radiator fluctuates between 24°C (75°F) and 50°C (122°F) at the warmest point of the radiator.

Germination

After one month the first seedling came up. As it needs light from this stage on, the aluminum foil was replaced by plastic foil leaving a small open space for the seedling to grow but conserving a maximum of moist inside the pot. Within the two months after sowing the second and third seedlings were seen.

Transplanting

As soon as the seedling appeared to be strong enough, they were transplanted into their individual containers. Waiting to long may risk to do more root damage than necessary.

From the 25 seeds, finally 6 seeds germinated, the first after 6 weeks.

Ravenala pictures

© La Palmeraie