© La Palmeraie

We regularly receive the question which palm tree will not grow taller than 6 tot 10 feet (2 to 3 metres) and whether growth can be limited. After all, not everyone has enough space for a huge palm tree and you want to avoid unpleasant surprises of course. In this article we will give you more insight into which types of palm meet your wishes, what you should pay attention to and which expectations are realistic.

Keeping small by pruning not possible

Unlike many other trees and shrubs in the garden, the growth of a palm cannot be controlled by pruning. The leaves are formed in only one place, in the heart of the palm and if you prune this you end up with a dead trunk without foliage. Some claim that you can limit growth by leaving the palm in a pot. This too is only partly true. The palm will indeed grow a bit slower but the growth will continue. Above all, it will look less beautiful and will need more attention in terms of nutrients and watering. This also applies to palms that are placed in pots in the open ground. It will not restrict growth but will cause problems later on due to reduced support because insufficient lateral roots were formed.

Pick the right species

There are over 4000 palm species but only a handful is really suitable to keep in the garden with a temperate climate. This is what we focus on in this article. For the sake of convenience, we also limit ourselves to those species that are easy to obtain. When choosing a suitable palm, it is advisable to look carefully in advance at what the right properties of the palm are and what exactly the needs of this type of palm are. The desired height of the palm can be such a wish, but also think of the hardness of the palm, the water needs,….

The following articles are certainly relevant here:

Palm trees care
What should I look for when buying a palm?
Can a palm tree be planted next to the pond/terrace?
How to plant a palm tree in your garden

Once you have an eye on a certain species, this article can give a realistic picture of the growth rate:

How old is my palm tree and how fast does it grow?

Below is a non-exhaustive overview of some common species and their characteristics, starting with 2 species that indeed more or less meet the demand of 6 to 10 feet (2 to 3 metres) maximum height.

Chamaerops humilis

(full description)
The European fan palm is a small perennial species that grows more in shrub form because of the offshoots. It is hardy to -12°C/10.4°F and likes the drier sunny location. If there is too much moisture, it is particularly troublesome in winter, which is initially manifested by black dots on the leaves. It requires no special care and growth is rather slow. The leaf stalks have sharp spines, keep this in mind in places that are frequently walked past. Ideal for smaller gardens and also very suitable for pots on the terrace or balcony.

Trachycarpus fortunei

(full description)
The Chinese windmill palm is actually the palm of choice for almost any garden. Although the final height is about 12 meters it will take many years before the palm is actually that big. So don’t be put off by this. We estimate that the Trachycarpus at the very top of this article is at least 30 years old. The pictures below illustrate the effective growth best. It is striking that smaller planted palms grow much faster than palms plantend when they were already large. It’s an extremely easy palm that grows well in almost any place. It is hardy down to -18°C/-0.4°F and therefore doesn’t really need any real care. It grows best in open ground but can also be kept in pots if desired. Due to its narrower appearance it fits even in smaller gardens.

Alternatives

Possible alternatives to palms that do not grow too big too quickly and do not require too special care are

Jubaea chilensis

This palm grows very slowly and is therefore a lot more expensive. It is hardy to around -12°C/10.4°F but needs to be kept dry during more extreme winters. Although it can become very substantial over time, its slow growth makes it a beautiful palm, even for the medium sized garden.

Butia odorata

A beautiful palm that is hardy to around -12°C/10.4°F and therefore only needs protection during the colder winters. It grows relatively compact, which makes it easy to place even in the smaller garden. However, the palm is less common and is commonly sold under the name Butia capitata.

Less appropriate…

Phoenix canarienis

(full description)
The Canary date palm is often offered for sale as a small specimen in supermarkets, DIY stores and garden centres. However, this is typically a palm that quickly becomes unmanageable in size. It grows relatively fast, especially once it’s really established in open ground but is only hardy to -6°C/21.2°F, so with the exception of very mild winters it always needs protection. A beautiful palm but only suitable for large gardens and mild climates or for enthusiasts who have no problems applying the protection which is a huge job once it’s bigger. It also does well in pots but will still continue to grow well, so the pot will become too small after a while. It can withstand root pruning so it can be kept in the same pot a little longer.

Washingtonia robusta

(full description)
The Mexican fan palm is another typical palm that often appears in advertising leaflets as a small specimen. However, it grows very fast and needs little specific care. Due to its limited hardness, – 4°C/24.8°F and its generous size after a few years, planting is only recommended for enthusiasts who know what they are getting into. Sooner or later it will become too big to protect and then a slightly harsher winter can be fatal.

© La Palmeraie

Of course, keeping exotic plants does not have to be limited exclusively to the garden. Exotic plants can also be kept in the living room. In this article we give some recommendations and points of attention. This way you can also enjoy exotic plants without a garden or extend the exotic garden to the living room.

Emplacement

Plants obviously need light. Lots of light! Even places that seem light enough for the human eye are often too dark for plants. Only a few plant species that naturally also occur as undergrowth in dark places will do well a little further away in the living room. In general, the place right next to a window is not an unnecessary luxury. Normally the glass filters all harmful radiation and there is little or no risk of burning. Be careful with any radiators that are placed close by. These provide a very dry air with an increased risk of spider mite. Floor heating is less problematic, especially when you water via the saucer (more about this later).

Which plant?

By paying some attention to the plant choice, you not only avoid disappointments but also prevent an unsuitable plant from wasting away and then appearing ugly in the living room.

A suitable plant can withstand the limited amount of light (relative to outdoors), the constant room temperature (also in the dark winter months) and the relatively dry air.

Because houses used to be much more draughty and only partially heated by a stove or fire, other plants were common than nowadays.  Ferns, for instance, used to be very common as houseplants, but nowadays they are far from easy to keep.

Some very suitable plants for the living room:

palms:

• Chamaedorea-species (Chamaedorea elegans, Chamaedorea radicalis,…)
• Dypsis lutescens (the popular “Areca”)
• Howea forsteriana (the well known “Kentia”, also suitable for the more darker emplacements)
• Phoenix roebelenii (if placed colder during the winter months)

Howea forsteriana, Dypsis lutescens, Phoenix roebelenii

bananas & relatives:

• Musa acumunita ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (most sold banana plant, often sold under names as; Musa nana, Musa tropicana,…)
• Strelitzia reginae ( if placed colder during the winter months for new blossoming)
• Strelitzia nicolai
• Alocasia-species (Alocasia calidora, Alocasia portadora,…)

Musa acumunita ‘Dwarf Cavendish’, Strelitzia reginae, Alocasia macrorrhiza

other exotics:

• Monstera deliciosa
• Ficus elastica
• Fatsia japonica
• Calathea-soorten
• succulents (Aloe, Agave,…)

Monsteria deliciosa

Some unsuitable plants for the living room:

palms & relatives:

• Trachycarpus-species
• Cocos nucifera (the very popular Coconut)
• Cycas revoluta (needs more light)

bananas & relatives:

• Musa basjoo
• Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelli’
• Heliconia-species
• Colocasia-species

other:

• bamboo (air too dry indoors)

Of course this overview is not complete, it only gives an idea! As always, the place of origin gives a good idea of what the plant requires. Plants from typical tropical areas will suffer from too dry air indoors, e.g. for Heliconias. Some plants also need a cool winter. Sometimes for stimulating new blooming such as the Strelitzia for instance, others because of the combination of high temperature and short, dark days that confuse them, such as the Phoenix roebelenii for instance.

Watering

Many of the problems with indoor plants are caused by unadjusted watering (often too much!). Be sure to watch our instruction video and give as much as possible via the saucer. Not only does the water evaporate alongside the plant for an improved humidity, but this way you also avoid the annoying sciarid flies that otherwise reproduce in the moist potting soil.

Alternatives

If you do not have a single suitable place in the house, there are still some possibilities. For instance, with a paludarium you can imitate a mini climate. You can also make a mini garden to put on the table.

paludarium

oa. Biophytum sensitivum

© La Palmeraie

Our website no longer only enjoys support in northern Europe, but also attracts enthusiasts from all over the world. Very nice of course, but the typical information about cultivating palms and other tropical plants in the cold and wet climate of Northern Europe does not always apply. Because there are apparently not many clear sources of information to be found cultivation of tropical plants in warmer regions, in this article we provide some tips and good sources of information.

USDA zone

The USDA zone is a useful starting point for growing exotic plants and palm trees in warmer regions. This way you can compare your own zone with the zone of the original habitat of a certain plant or check if there are certain zones with a similar climate. For instance, not much information can be found about the cultivation of palm trees in North Africa (Morocco, etc.), but there is a lot of information about these plants in Southern California where the climate is almost identical!

Plants that naturally only occur in a certain region are likely to experience difficulties in cooler regions. For example, the Ravenala madagascariensis which does not occur in USDA zones <10. On the other hand, there are also species that have a harder time in warm climates. The Trachycarpus fortunei does better in cold areas and you will hardly see this palm in USDA zones >9.

More information about USDA zones can be found in this article.

Botanical gardens

Local botanical gardens also provide an interesting source of information! In almost every country there are such initiatives to be found and it is the place par excellence to discover all kinds of non-indigenous plants and to see what is possible locally as well.

Often the diversity of the common plants in the area is quite monotonous despite the fact that all sorts of species can be grown. For instance, in Andalousie and North Africa it is mainly Washingtonia, Phoenix and Syagrus that you come across, while many more beautiful palm species may be perfectly grown!

La Concepción Jardín Botánico-Historico de Málaga which is also very active through social media

Interesting sources

All articles and recommendations on this site are given on the basis of personal experiences. When it comes to growing palms and exotic species in warmer climates, this is obviously more tricky. General principles do of course apply in terms of water needs and winter care but with slightly different accents.

On the following sites you will find interesting information about many specific palm varieties and their characteristics:

Trebrown Nursery – UK Hardy Palm Trial Results : overview of species with concrete experiences in terms of minimum temperatures (English)

Palmasur – Palmeras y jardines : overview of species with all characteristics adapted to the Mediterranean climate (Spanish, French, English)

Palmpedia – Palms for California: very complete overview of possible species with all characteristics and experiences (English)

© La Palmeraie

Jardin Majorelle – Marrakesh dd 2017

Monstera deliciosa

Dypsis decaryi

Hotel La Mamounia – Marrakech

La Concepción Jardín Botánico-Historico – Málaga dd 2018

Roystonea regia

Acoelorrhaphe wrightii

Phoenix sylvestris

Phoenix dactylifera

In the Southern Europe, they form a real plague. Fortunately, they are still relatively unknown in our Northwestern regions. Both the palm moth (Paysandisia archon) and the Red palm weevil (Rhynchophorus ferrugineus) destroy whole areas with once so beautiful palms. Especially for those who have a residence down there, for those who already had to deal with it or just for those who are interested, we describe in this article all the relevant aspects and of course the treatment of these pests.

Description

Name: Palm butterfly or palm moth – Paysandisia archon
(F: Papillon du palmier)
Origin: Latin America
Strikingly large and impressive insect. Can be relatively aggressive when he feels threatened.

Name: Red Palm Weevil (RPW) – Rhynchophorus ferrugineus
(F: Scarabée rouge de palmier, E: Picudo rojo)
Origin: Asia

Distribution

Palm moth: in Europe since the 90s, by imports of palm trees into Spain (such as the Butia). Then progressed to Portugal, France and Italy. Contrary to common belief, it is not the climate that prevents further spread to the North! The larvae are even very cold resistant. The palms in the North are simply too far apart. However, the lower temperatures are also a determining factor, as the palm moth does not fly and does not reproduce during colder, windy periods. In France, it is mainly the palm moth that causes the greatest destruction. The red palm weevil is less widespread.

Red Palm Weevil: in Europe since 2000, through Spain and then Portugal and France, where it is mainly the Cote d’ Azur that is abandoning this scourge. He can be found from Marseille to Nice but also in Perpignan and Corsica. It is also widespread in smaller municipalities, mostly due to the transport of goods.

Distribution in Europe

Red color: present, brighter color means restricted presence

Source: CABI – invasive species compendium: Paysandisia – Rhynchophorus

Life cycle

Palm moth: Adult insects appear during the summer season (June-September) and fly during the hottest hours of the day with reproduction as the sole purpose. After being fertilized, the female lays between 100-150 eggs in small groups (per 2 to 3), in the soft parts just under the leaf crown of the palm but sometimes also in the fibres (e. g. Trachycarpus). After two weeks, the eggs hatch and the larvae immediately gnaw their way to the heart of the palm. The larvae stay in the palm for 10 to 18 months (several seasons!) during different stages before transforming. 2 to 3 months after pupating, the larva has been transformed into adult palm moth.

Red Palm Weevil: lives throughout the year in which he is active all day long. Only a decrease in activity can be observed between December and March. The adult individual lives about 3 months where he feeds on sweet food such as honey, dates, apples etc. The female can be fertilized several times and then lays her eggs one by one (up to 300 pieces) deep in the leaf crown. 2 to 5 days later the larvae appear, forming gagging galleries to the heart of the palm. The destroyed parts rot and thus significantly increase the internal temperature of the palm, which the larvae then benefit from. Between 25 and 105 days later (depending on the circumstances) the larvae move to the palm’s petioles to transform. With this short life cycle, the red palm beetle can produce several generations per season! Damage to the palm can be such that the palm collapses completely.

Hosts

Palm moth: great preference for fibrous stems and especially the Trachycarpus. Especially on freestanding sunny locations. Basically only adult palms up to 10 meters high. Preference for already weakened palms. They return to the same place so the same palm can be attacked repeatedly.

• by preference: Trachycarpus, Brahea, Chamaerops, Jubaea, Livistona, Phoenix
• seems more tolerant: Washingtonia robusta, Butia yatay, Trithrinax campestris, Syagrus romanzoffiana
• seems to be immune: Chamaedorea, Rhapsis, Arenga

Red Palm Weevil: very great preference for Phoenix, Washingtonia and Pritchardia. In France, the Phoenix canariensis, which is often planted, is the main prey.

Detection

Similar symptoms for both palm moth as red palm weevil:

• damaged foliage (perforations in one row, missing leaf tips)
• visible holes and galeries on the petioles and petiole bases
• major shrinkage of the leaf crown (by destroying tissue the growth of the leaf decreases)

Different symptoms

Palm moth

• presence of ‘sawdust’ on the trunk and at the base of the trunk
• presence of empty pupae at the base of the trunk

Red Palm Weevil

• presence of fermented liquid on the trunk and at the base of the palm

NB. When pupae are found it is a lot easier to determine which insect is causing the problems. The texture of the pupal case of the palm moth is different from that of the red palm weevil.

Palm moth

More advanced stages

• deformed leaf crown, absence of new leaves (or spears) or very short and dry new leaves
• a leaf crown that falls sideways or is fully collapsed
• clearly visible tunnels on the trunk and petioles

NB. Phoenixes can hide an attack for a relatively long time. Detection is therefore not always easy and sometimes even comes too late. Sometimes the palm seems in excellent condition, while more in-depth research shows that the whole inside has already been completely destroyed.

Be careful not to confuse these very specific symptoms with more innocent things like traces of insect gnawing such as crickets or cicadas. The fungal infection Fusarium can also cause parts of dried leaves. Winter damage can also cause a sudden drop in the palm. Consult our first aid guide for palm trees to exclude these matters.

Thermal cameras, detection by micro radiation and also detection by sound waves are still under investigation, but may be useful detection methods in the future.

Control

These parasites are a recent threat. No treatment is perfect (insufficient efficacy or harmful to the environment) but treatment is necessary. Without treatment not only the palm dies but also the pest continues unhindered. Palms that are too far damaged and cannot be rescued must absolutely be destroyed. Unfortunately, these precautions will never completely rule out the plague, but they will greatly reduce it.

Prevention

• avoid pruning the leaves during the summer season. Especially when the leaf is still green. The insects scent it from very far away and are attracted by it. So only prune out of season (January-March) and only the brown, dry leaves. Still, not pruning does not completely rule out an attack. They penetrate deep enough deep into the crown of the leaves to find a laying place.
• immediately apply a wound dressing on damaged surfaces
• for some Phoenix species: remove young offshoots at the base as they provide easy access to insects
• review the palm regularly and thoroughly, examine any possible damage to the petioles, especially if the leaf is different from the other leaves. In that case, test the strength of the leaf.

Preventive treatment

Biopalm

The INRA institute from Montpellier has developed an adhesive called “Biopalm”. This is relatively expensive for the individual customer but very effective. The glue is only applied to the heart of the palm and upper part of the trunk using a compressor. The brown-colored adhesive layer acts as a trap. In some cases, the insects don’t even take the trouble to visit the palm anymore. The larvae that are already present adhere to the adhesive layer after the depopulation, making it impossible to fly out. The adhesive layer works for one year and a treatment costs approximately €150, – if you can apply it yourself. The treatment must be repeated every year, in June. If you start too early, uncovered spots may arise due to the growth. If you are later, the insects have already pounded their eggs.

For further information or ordering please contact:

Christophe VASTEL
160, route de la Valentine
BP10121
13371 MARSEILLE Cedex 11
www.solabiol.com – www.capiscol.fr
christophe.vastel@novajardin.com

Preventive spraying with insecticide is less recommended. Insecticide does not work long enough and is too harmful for the environment. Only endotherapy (see lower) can also be used as a preventative measure.

Treatment

Insecticide

• Insecticide (both chemical and biological) is effective when strong enough, applied correctly and at the right time. Please note that broad spectrum insecticide will not only kill the targeted, harmful insects. Therefore, avoid the flowers or better even remove them completely to save useful pollinators. Insecticide is useless when applied too late in the season. The insects are already in their impenetrable pupa. Treatment during the pounding period is ideal.

• For the correct application, dosage, period and duration of operation, the description on the packaging can be followed. Only on the Trachycarpus may the dose be doubled because the moisture-retaining fibres can dilute the product. A dropper can also be a solution for such palms by hanging a plastic bottle with a small hole upside down above the palm.

• Thoroughly treat each part of the leaf crown and the top of the stem. In some palms it can be very difficult to reach every part but avoid pruning leaves at all times in order not to attract the insects as described above.

• Treatments also exist in which an insecticide is injected into the trunk once only, but also for this purpose it is necessary to drill into the trunk. Moreover, this method is not very effective in species where the insects can only be found in the petioles and petioles and not in the trunk (e. g. in the Phoenix).

Some useful components are: Imidacloprid, Deltamethin, Cypermethrin, Diflubenzuron, Tau-fluvalinate.

Efficient products:

• neem oil & epsom salt
• ‘Condor’ (: Imidacloprid) (see picture) is recommended by some as the preferred means of choice. Unfortunately, it has become difficult to obtain through adapted legislation.
• ‘DecisJ‘ (: Deltamethin) sold in in local garden centres in France is well suited
• ‘Klartan jardin‘ (Tau-fluvalinate) (Klartan: 3ml for 1,5 1.5 liters per palm to be applied in the crown).
• ‘Subito’ (:concentrated insecticide against ants in 5kg bucket) to be spread in the heart of the palm or to be diluted and sprayed in the heart, preventive treatment
• ‘Colourless Xylophene in aqueous phase’ to be diluted to 50% for copious watering of the heart without touching the leaves, rather curative treatment

* neem oil & epsom salt: a fairly economical treatment: neem oil should be diluted with water at a rate of 2% of the quantity of water used. Add one teaspoon of epsom salt per litre of water. Apply to the heart (!) and sides of the stem. Set the sprayer to brush spray (not mist). Apply in the evening, as the active ingredients in neem oil are damaged by direct sunlight. Repeat every month during the moth flight period (July to the end of September).

In any case, the inflorescences should be cut off to protect the pollinators!

Pruning
In some cases all the infected parts of the palm are pruned to leave healthy tissue only. Then holes are drilled on top of the heart and completely filled with insecticides.

Endotherapy:

A professional method that was originally devised against the red palm weevil. But which also proved to be very successful in combating the palm moth. In this treatment, one or more holes are drilled in the trunk of the palm in which a long needle is inserted. Tubes are attached to these, which release a very strong poison during one year. The big disadvantage of this method is of course the drilling in the trunk. The advantage is that these can be used every year again.

Parasites

Nematodes: (sold under the names palmanem and palma-life)

• The nematodes are dissolved in water and this solution is then sprayed on the palm or even simply poured with a watering can. The treatment must be repeated several times, usually in May-June, late September and October-November. There are also pheromone traps that attract adult insects and subsequently infect them with nematodes. The insect then spreads the nematodes itself.

• Nematodes work best when it is damp and not too hot. Treatment in summer is therefore excluded. Nematodes have a very limited storage life. Further instructions are included when you buy the product.

Fungus: (i.a. the species Beauveria bassiana and Metarhizium anisopliae)

• A very efficient but not very practical method. Adult males must be infected with the fungal infection in a laboratory. They are then released (and still have to survive). The fungi can also be diluted as grains and sprayed directly over the palm. However, it is far from always feasible to reach the insects sufficiently. The method is therefore not used much at the moment.

• Ostrinil (only against the palm moth): a professional method in which spores of this fungus destroy the larvae and the eggs of the palmmot. Adult specimens do not suffer from any nuisance but the cycle is broken. The application of the product is not dependent on weather conditions and can therefore also be used during hot, dry periods. The treatment happens early in the season when the larvae come to the surface and during the laying period. For the most efficient operation, the treatment must be continued for two years.

Traps

Pheromone traps:

• Very efficient against the red palm weevil. It smells the pheromones from far away. However, the palm moth smells the pheromones only at a very short distance (about 20cm). It finds its partner mainly on view. The pheromone trap usually contains pheromones, kairomones and a fermenting substrate. The disadvantage of this method is that not only these insects are trapped but others as well. Pheromone traps can be a good preventative way to detect the presence of the plague in time.

• It is very possible to make a trap yourself. On this French site there is a great explanation how to do so.

Hand capture:

• Hand capture is very difficult and inefficient. The insects are not only impressive but also very fast and strong. Moreover, they do not scare off quickly.

Predators:

• Cats, birds, rodents, hedgehogs, ants, ants, wasps, etc. are all interested in both insects and/or their larvae/eggs. At the moment, however, it is still too little to keep the scourge effectively balanced.

Other

Nettle (Urtica) extract: too few experiences.

Melia azedarach (Chinaberry tree): planting this tree (which is related to the familiar Neem which is used in the treatment of lice) near the palm would be described by some people is successful in protecting against pests.

Covering: the entire leaf crown of the palm is packed in a large bag of fleece cloth. Of course only handy for smaller plants and therefore not practical. Moreover, this method is not very appealing neither. Useful when the palm is not contaminated yet or to isolate an infected specimen.

Essential oil: very few experiences but still an interesting path. Among other things, the possibilities with oils such as citronella and garlic are examined.

Conclusion

To determine which methode suits you best, you should take in account:

• efficiency (biological control, how noble it may be, remains less effective)
• ease of use (how easy is the product to obtain and use? In all weather conditions? Shelf life span?)
• price
• impact on the environment
• aesthetical aspect

Source: Claire Simonin and INRA
© La Palmeraie

Other background information:
Very complete (French) document from Claire Simonin

Very complete (French) website from the INRA institute

Video of the Red Palm Weevil:

In Northern Europe, palm trees do not grow naturally. When cultivating palms is such conditions, a number of things must therefore be taken into account. But even with those precautions, something can still go wrong. This manual explains the main issues and remedies.

When buying a palm it is recommended to check the general condition of the plant. Not only the leaves need to be checked, the roots are an equally important point of attention.

Importation

Consequences of roots in clay

Palms with roots in clay will look good for a long time. But because the clay hermetically seals the roots from nutrients, the damaged roots will regenerate only with lots of difficulty. As a result, the palm will no longer grows leaves. In time even the leaflets will fold; a sign that the palm has difficulties absorbing enough moisture.

When buying

Because sellers also are familiar with the disadvantages of a clay potted palm, it often happens that the clay is covered with a layer of fine potting soil. Therefore, do not hesitate to take the palm out of the pot (or have it taken out) to be able to control the entire root ball. This way you immediately see if the root ball is well developed and healthy.

Treatment of a clay potted palm

If you should unfortunately have to deal with a clay potted palm, the root ball must be treated. With the garden hose, all clay can be rinsed out between the roots. Avoid too cold periods where the ice-cold tap water could bring the palm into shock. You will notice how few (healthy) roots the palm has in proportion to its size.

After rinsing out, the palm is best potted. It is also possible to plant it directly in the garden on condition that it is planted sufficiently early in spring. This way the palm still has a whole season for the production of healthy roots. A good protection is also recommended for the first winter. Use a potting soil of good quality, the palm can use all the extra help now. It is also wise to mix a handful of bone meal in the potting soil to stimulate root growth.

The palm will put all its energy into creating new roots. It may therefore take quite some time before new growth can be observed again. As long as the palm doesn’t deteriorate even further, there is still hope.

N.B. This article only applies to clay potted palms! This means, root balls where you will only find thick clay and no apparent roots. For palms where there are many healthy roots visible, the clay does not pose a problem at all as the roots are not closed off from the environment. Treatment is not necessary in that case!

Video: how palms are dug out at the nursery

© La Palmeraie

Not only the low temperature but especially the moisture makes that every winter a lot of palms have to cope with spear rot. In this condition, the spears (the folded new leaf in the heart of the palm) becomes dry and can be pulled out with little effort. The bottom is week and rotten. However, this does not mean the very end of your palm. Because sooner or later every exotic enthusiast will be confronted with this, we wrote a manual for the treatment of spear rot.

Drying

When removing the rotten spears, the heart of the palm remains as a gaping hole.To prevent further decay, it is important that you treat the hole. Some palms recover spontaneously, but the chance of success is still much greater with treatment.First of all, dry the hole as much as possible, for instance with the help of paper towels.

Copper fungicide

Next you need to treat to hole with a copper fungicide or a Bordeaux mixture . These products are sold under different names and the legislation for these products changes quite often.

Normally you should dissolve the product in water before use. But as you want to keep the gaping hole as dry as possible you just spinkle the powder inside. Be careful tough as the copper powder is dangerous to inhale and harmful for nature. Just sprinkle the product inside and try to cover all the side walls of the hole while doing so. A little bit will do, it isn’t necessary to fill the whole hole.

Protection

The heart of the palm must then be protected from rain and moisture by means of a shelter. This can be done by using an inverted bottle or flower pot or by placing the palm under a canopy. However, ensure adequate ventilation.

From now on, it comes to patience to see how the palm will evolve. It may take up to a few months before signs of growth are seen again. Do not give up courage too soon. Especially fast-growing palms recover faster from spear rot than slower-growing species. Only when the palm didn’t pick up growth towards the end of the season, the palm is really lost.

Last resort

If the hole appears too deep for proper treatment, the trunk can also be sawn off in horizontal slices. Remove slices until you reach the healthy wood. Then treat with Copper powder and keep the wound dry. Because of this drastic intervention, the palm loses a part of its ornamental value, since the trunk will never be the same again, but it can be the last resort.

© La Palmeraie

We regularly receive questions from concerned enthusiasts about the condition of their palm. And even though it is always difficult to determine the exact cause of the problem (especially on the basis of an explanation alone) we will always be happy to help you with the problem. Since it are usually the same things that return, we have incorporated them in this article.

DIAGNOSIS

Palm species

First of all, it is useful to know what species of palm it concerns. After all, every species requires its own specific care. The species is indicated on the label or, if you don’t have it anymore, you can take a look at our palm trees page. The most common species are also among them.

Care

As soon as you know which species it concerns, you can determine whether the palm gets the correct care. The article “Palm trees care” can help you with this. Look at the origin of the palm for instance. Do you offer the same conditions as the original climate?

History

A bit of background can also be interesting. Has the palm deteriorated since the purchase? Then the cause is probably an incorrect care. Has the palm suddenly deteriorated, then the cause is more likely to be found in a recent event? New location, repotted, plague….

At the nursery

Exotic plants, and palm trees are no exception to this, are gaining in popularity. Many garden centres, sellers and nurseries do offer these plants by default now. Unfortunately, they don’t all have the necessary knowledge to advise you correctly. Always address yourself to experienced enthusiasts for the most appropriate care of your palm.

Palms that are sold for a bargain sometimes do have a reason to be sold as cheap. Not infrequently, these palms have suffered more frost than they can handle. Unfortunately, the symptoms are often only visible much later.

Frequent made errors:

• you didn’t received the correct advice on the appropriate care
• the palm is potted in a container without drainage holes
• the palm is overwatered
• the palm wasn’t exposed to direct sunlight gradually
• the location of the palm is to dark
• the air humidity is to low

Checklist

• appropriate care?
• no visible pests/diseases?
• the new spears (folded new leaves) do not come when pulled slightly between two fingertips?
• the roots are in good condition (white-yellow)?

Treatment

As the treatment of spear rot requires a very specific approach, we wrote a separate article on this subject: “How to treat spear rot”

If you were not able to use this article to solve the problem, you can always contact us using the form below! We will gladly help you.

© La Palmeraie

Every year again from New Year until the end of winter, we receive more and more questions about problems with the Phoenix roebelenii. The symptoms are always the same; the leaves begin to dry and are hanging down sadly. Time to write down our advice in an article.

What is the cause?

Different problems can cause the leaves to dry out. Therefore, first check the following points:

• Was the palm exposed to frost? This palm species is not hardy!
• the leaves are free of pests (spider mite, scale insect, mealybug)? Check out our First Aid guide for palm trees.

Is none of the above not the case? Then definitely read on.

Symptoms

The palm looks less vital and less glossy than it did during purchase. The leaves seem thinner and dull as if you can look through the crown. This is because the leaf segments are folded.

Location

In almost all cases, the above-mentioned complaints can be traced back to the palms location. Not without reason things go wrong at the end of winter. The palm is indoors where the central heating has been running at full speed for several months. The temperature is fairly high (>20°C / 68°F) and the humidity low due to the heating. The days are short and dark, so the palm gets little light. In many cases the palm also got too much water.

The Phoenix roebelenii is completely confused. The lack of light indicates that the palm should be at rest, but the high temperature indicates the growth season. The dry air and the too humid soil are an additional obstacle.

The solution

By putting the Phoenix roebelenii in a cooler place, the palm can really hibernate during winter. Sufficient light is recommended. An unheated bedroom or bright hall are ideal. Beware of sunny spots behind a window where the temperature can rise significantly during the day.

During this rest period, the metabolism of the palm is virtually at rest. It will therefore hardly grow and does not consume much water. So keep the earth only slightly moist so that the roots do not rot.

In this way your Phoenix roebelenii will seamlessly bridge those winter months.

In spring this palm can be put back on the terrace as soon as the night frost has gone. Let the palm gradually get used to the sun so that the leaves do not burn.

© La Palmeraie