We regularly receive the question which palm tree will not grow taller than 6 tot 10 feet (2 to 3 metres) and whether growth can be limited. After all, not everyone has enough space for a huge palm tree and you want to avoid unpleasant surprises of course. In this article we will give you more insight into which types of palm meet your wishes, what you should pay attention to and which expectations are realistic.

Keeping small by pruning not possible

Unlike many other trees and shrubs in the garden, the growth of a palm cannot be controlled by pruning. The leaves are formed in only one place, in the heart of the palm and if you prune this you end up with a dead trunk without foliage. Some claim that you can limit growth by leaving the palm in a pot. This too is only partly true. The palm will indeed grow a bit slower but the growth will continue. Above all, it will look less beautiful and will need more attention in terms of nutrients and watering. This also applies to palms that are placed in pots in the open ground. It will not restrict growth but will cause problems later on due to reduced support because insufficient lateral roots were formed.

Pick the right species

There are over 4000 palm species but only a handful is really suitable to keep in the garden with a temperate climate. This is what we focus on in this article. For the sake of convenience, we also limit ourselves to those species that are easy to obtain. When choosing a suitable palm, it is advisable to look carefully in advance at what the right properties of the palm are and what exactly the needs of this type of palm are. The desired height of the palm can be such a wish, but also think of the hardness of the palm, the water needs,….

The following articles are certainly relevant here:

Palm trees care
What should I look for when buying a palm?
Can a palm tree be planted next to the pond/terrace?
How to plant a palm tree in your garden

Once you have an eye on a certain species, this article can give a realistic picture of the growth rate:

How old is my palm tree and how fast does it grow?

Below is a non-exhaustive overview of some common species and their characteristics, starting with 2 species that indeed more or less meet the demand of 6 to 10 feet (2 to 3 metres) maximum height.

Chamaerops humilis

(full description)
The European fan palm is a small perennial species that grows more in shrub form because of the offshoots. It is hardy to -12°C/10.4°F and likes the drier sunny location. If there is too much moisture, it is particularly troublesome in winter, which is initially manifested by black dots on the leaves. It requires no special care and growth is rather slow. The leaf stalks have sharp spines, keep this in mind in places that are frequently walked past. Ideal for smaller gardens and also very suitable for pots on the terrace or balcony.

Trachycarpus fortunei

(full description)
The Chinese windmill palm is actually the palm of choice for almost any garden. Although the final height is about 12 meters it will take many years before the palm is actually that big. So don’t be put off by this. We estimate that the Trachycarpus at the very top of this article is at least 30 years old. The pictures below illustrate the effective growth best. It is striking that smaller planted palms grow much faster than palms plantend when they were already large. It’s an extremely easy palm that grows well in almost any place. It is hardy down to -18°C/-0.4°F and therefore doesn’t really need any real care. It grows best in open ground but can also be kept in pots if desired. Due to its narrower appearance it fits even in smaller gardens.

Alternatives

Possible alternatives to palms that do not grow too big too quickly and do not require too special care are

Jubaea chilensis

This palm grows very slowly and is therefore a lot more expensive. It is hardy to around -12°C/10.4°F but needs to be kept dry during more extreme winters. Although it can become very substantial over time, its slow growth makes it a beautiful palm, even for the medium sized garden.

Butia odorata

A beautiful palm that is hardy to around -12°C/10.4°F and therefore only needs protection during the colder winters. It grows relatively compact, which makes it easy to place even in the smaller garden. However, the palm is less common and is commonly sold under the name Butia capitata.

Less appropriate…

Phoenix canarienis

(full description)
The Canary date palm is often offered for sale as a small specimen in supermarkets, DIY stores and garden centres. However, this is typically a palm that quickly becomes unmanageable in size. It grows relatively fast, especially once it’s really established in open ground but is only hardy to -6°C/21.2°F, so with the exception of very mild winters it always needs protection. A beautiful palm but only suitable for large gardens and mild climates or for enthusiasts who have no problems applying the protection which is a huge job once it’s bigger. It also does well in pots but will still continue to grow well, so the pot will become too small after a while. It can withstand root pruning so it can be kept in the same pot a little longer.

Washingtonia robusta

(full description)
The Mexican fan palm is another typical palm that often appears in advertising leaflets as a small specimen. However, it grows very fast and needs little specific care. Due to its limited hardness, – 4°C/24.8°F and its generous size after a few years, planting is only recommended for enthusiasts who know what they are getting into. Sooner or later it will become too big to protect and then a slightly harsher winter can be fatal.

© La Palmeraie

During the coldest winter months, some more sensitive plants need winter protection. For certain species, a shelter alone is sufficient. Other species must be actively protected and therefore a heat source is needed. This article shows the different alternatives!

Heat cable

This is the most robust but also the most expensive solution. The cable can easily be rotated around the pot or plant but avoid direct contact with the fronds to avoid burning. For a 10 meter cable, you can count around €35, -.

Rope light

This is the solution that we often use ourselves. The rope lights are cheap and easy to use. Unfortunately, only the old 220V rope light works as the LED variants do not generate heat. The old rope lights are now very difficult to find. Calculate for a 9M rope light about €10-€15, – In a shelter covered with plastic foil and a layer of bubble wrap we gained up to 7°C with this method. It is advised to let the rope light warm before manipulating it to to expand its lifespan.

Candles

A striking but very effective way of heating is the use of a tea light. Place a tea light of sufficient capacity (e. g. 10 hours burn time) between two bricks. Put an inverted terra cotta pot on top and cover the outside with aluminium foil. The heat accumulates in the pot, making it an enormous heat source. In the simple tents shown here, without further insulation, up to 8°C is gained!

Other

Of course, you can also work with heat lamps or even electric heaters. Because those methods are somewhat more obvious, they have not been discussed further. In any case, always pay attention to safety, as it can become fairly moist in the shelters. The use of a thermostat is also convenient so that the heat source switches on and off automatically when necessary.

© La Palmeraie

Like other exotic plants, tree ferns also need a winter protection. Because it is almost impossible to create a separate description for each species, you will find here a general description.

Dicksonia

The most common species among enthusiasts is the Dicksonia antarctica. This is one of the simplest tree ferns to cultivate. The Dicksonia antarctica can survive for a short period of time up to -8°C/-10°C (17,6-14°F) (night frost) without specific protection. If temperatures below -6°C (21,2°F) are predicted for a longer period of time, it is recommended to protect it. The Dicksonia antarctica loses its leaves (become brown) at temperatures colder than -8°C/-10°C (17,6-14°F) or when the leaves are directly exposed to snow or ice.

Protecting the tree fern can be done in various ways.

Wrapping

Frost-protected

You can also leave the Dicksonia antarctica somewhere frost-free to overwinter between 0°C and 8°C (32-46,4°F). Make sure that the stem and growth point do not dry out during the winter. Especially if there is additional heating. This is forgotten by many, who than still lose their tree fern after all.

The Dicksonia fibrosa and Dicksonia sellowiana resist up to -6°C/-8°C  (21,2-17,6°F). The will need protection when persistent temperatures below -5°C (23°F) are announced. Leaves are damaged by temperatures below  -4°C/-6°C (24,8-21,2°F) or when the leaves are directly exposed to snow or ice.

The Dicksonia squarrosa and Dicksonia youngiae resist up to -3°C/-5°C (26,6-23°F). Keeping thesespecies outside during winter requires a lot of attention simply for the fact that these species are quickly affected by drying out. The heart of the stem is hollow in these species and the plant has almost no buffer. It is therefore very important that they do not dry out during the winter. Both species will have leaf damage at temperatures below -2°C/-4°C (28,4-24,8°F) or when the leaves are directly exposed to snow or ice.

Cyathea

Cyatheas (only the most hardy species within this genus) can be kept outside during winter but only with sufficient protection. It will therefor be needed to well wrap it and heat with an external heat source. Cyatheas will show leaf damage at temperatures below -2°C/-4°C (28,4-24,8°F) or when the leaves are directly exposed to snow or ice. Only exception is the Cyathea australis which should be as hardy as the Dicksonia antarctica.

Even better is to keep the Cyathea protected from frost at 0°C and 8°C (32-46,4°F). The more tropical species need to be kept between 6°C and 12°C (21,2-53,6°F). This way they will conserve their foliage and will still be very neat in spring. Do not forget to keep them moist during all this time when temperatures will allow.

Watergift

During the winter months, the tree ferns naturally consume less moisture due to the low temperature. However, this does not mean that the tree fern should dry out. Water once a week is recommended. However, the plant should not be too wet neither. The most important thing about wintering is therefore the prevention of drying out and that the protection does not allow too much moisture to evaporate.

Text by TropiRo
Illustrations by Eduard

© La Palmeraie

When most still enjoy the last sunbeams, the average exotic lover is already thinking about the coming winter. How are you going to help all those plants flawlessly through this winter again? In the months of September and October, this is often the main topic of discussion. Numerous articles have appeared on the internet about protecting a banana plant during the winter. But often these articles are only about packing as winter protection. To give a more complete overview of the possible methods, we have listed them all for you. This way you can choose which method is most suitable for you and your banana plant.

Is a banana plant hardy?

Some banana plants are known to be hardy. This hardiness, however, refers to the roots only. The plant stops already growing at temperatures below 5°C (41°F). From -2°C (28,4°F) the leaf freezes completely. With persistent frost, the pseudo stem, which contains a lot of moisture, will also freezes. The plant then dies off to the ground and only forms new shoots in spring (April/May). In order to get a larger plant and even achieve flowering, it has to survive the winter.

Some popular hardy species:

Musa basjoo -20°C / -4°F
Musa sikkimensis -15°C / 5°F
Ensete glaucum -10°C / 14°F
Musella lasiocarpa -5°C / 23°F

Methods overview

Four different wintering methods are discussed below. The first two methods leave the plant outdoors for the entire winter. In the last two methods the plant overwinters dry, i. e. indoors.

Outside

1) Without protection

Probably the simplest, but also the most risky method is not to protect the banana plant during the winter months. Depending on the severity of the winter, the result of this method will also vary. Some species are fairly hardy, but as mentioned earlier, this characteristic only applies to the rhizomes. When frost persists, the leaf and then the pseudo stem dies to the ground. In spring (April/May) new shoots emerge again.

+ no effort required
+ saves purchase of packaging materials/place in the house
- plant must start every year from 0 and thus never mature = no flowering
- at colder temperatures the roots also freeze ! = Banana plant dead!

2) Protected

Used materials:
Fleece cloth, sold in your local garden center and DIY stores.
Straw can be bought most cheapest directly at a local farm.

+ roots remain indisturbed
+ suitable for really big subjects or rhizomes with multiple stems
- difficult to determine with certainty the exact moment of application of the protection
- still no guarantee of preservation of the plant

Indoor

3) Dry hibernation

With this less familiar method, the pseudo stem is stripped of its leaves in autumn and then dug out with all its rhizomes. If the rhizome has several stems, these can now also be divided very well. The rhizome and its stem are placed in a tub. There is no need to add any potting soil. Place it in a cool place: between 5 to 10°C is perfect. Light is not required. The water gift must also be drastically reduced. Just enough to prevent the rhizomes from drying out. Growth will come to a standstill. It goes without saying that even fertilisation can no longer be administered now. In spring, the water gift may slowly be increased again. As soon as it is warm enough, the plant can also be placed outside and fertilizers can be used again.

This method allows for faster growth rates than plants that have wintered outside.

+ winter temperature is easier to manipulate
+ multiple stems can be stored together in a tight space
+ growth starts faster in spring
- digging out larger specimens takes some time and energy
- watering during winter is more difficult to determine; by feeling

4) As indoor plant

With this last method, the potted banana plant is given the brightest possible indoor location during the winter months. All the leaves are simply left in place. Reduced light intensity will reduce growth, but it will not completely stop it thanks to maintaining the higher (room) temperature. Watering should be limited to actual needs. The soil should be slightly damp, certainly not wet. You lose a banana plant during the winter more often due to too much moisture than too little! Of course, the fertilisation must also be adjusted during this rest period. As soon as the temperatures rise again in spring, the plant can be placed outside again. Remember that the old leaves have to get used to direct sunlight again. Therefore, it is best to start with a place in the shade and gradually increase the number of hours of direct sunlight.

This method is especially recommended for smaller banana plants and the most cold sensitive species.

+ minimum effort for plants that are already in pots
+ leaf pruning not needed
- space/suitable spot required
- not feasible for larger specimens

© La Palmeraie

Winter is coming. After protecting the banana plants, we have to start thinking about what winter protection our palms need. Of course, the method used depends on many factors. First of all, of course, the winter itself.

Winter

The harsher the winter, the more precautions need to be taken. Unfortunately, this factor is difficult to predict in advance. So the best way is to keep a good eye on the weather forecast. This factor can also vary considerably from one year to the next. In 2007 we had almost no winter and the winter of 2008 was extreme with temperatures up to -18°C (-0,4°F)! The winter protection is best done just before the persistent frost. It is therefore impossible to set a fixed date for this. You’ll have to observe, assess and, if necessary, adapt. If the temperature rises slightly again, the winter protection is best removed (partially) for optimum air circulation.

Species & emplacement

Protection methods

In addition to these described factors such as the type of winter, the type of palm and the location, the choice of winter protection is entirely at your own convenience. Experience, judgement, budget and available space obviously also play a role here.

Without protection

This method requires no further explanation. For certain species, a protection is indeed unnecessary as long as winter does not become too severe. The advantage is that the air circulation remains optimal. During these humid months of the year no excessive luxury. You can also enjoy the palm during the winter months. The disadvantage of course is the risk that the palm will suffer too much frost, which may result in death.

Suitable species e.g.:
Trachycarpus fortunei (-18°C), Trachycarpus wagnerianus (-18°C)

Mulch

By applying a layer of insulating organic material at the base of the palm, the roots are protected against the cold. Use airy materials such as dry leaves, straw, branches of coniferous trees, bark or chips. In addition, the mulch layer will be transformed into humus, which will improve the soil structure. Only when it is long damp it is necessary to make sure that the mulch layer does not rot. If necessary, remove the material temporarily until it is dry again.

Suitable for all species.

Protecting the heart and protecting the whole palm

The heart of the palm is the most vulnerable part. This is where the new leaves are formed. If the spear is damaged (spear rot) it becomes very difficult to save the palm. Extra attention to protect the spear is therefore recommended. Moisture in particular is a problem here. By placing an umbrella above the palm, the moisture problem is easily solved. Use an umbrella with sturdy ribs or a beach umbrella. This last one is very strong and also cheap. Place a plastic sheet over it to make it waterproof. Then attach the handle of the umbrella to the trunk. Afterwards, connect a few ropes from the tip to anchor points around the palm to prevent the umbrella from being blown away.

As temperatures drop further, the leaves can be bound together upwards. The tied up leaves is less frost sensitive, evaporates much less water and thus suddenly forms a protective layer for the spear.

After tying together the leaves, the trunk and petioles can also be protected by wrapping with fleece cloth, jute or reed mats. For additional insulation, this protective layer can be filled with straw or dry leaves. Christmas lighting can also be placed around the protection. This way the temperature can be kept slightly higher. Avoid direct contact with the spear and leaves to prevent them from burning.

Plastic film is not suitable as a protective layer directly applied on the leaves because it does not breathe. The condensation formed can freeze, so that the protective layer will have the opposite effect. Always use breathable materials. Only the top of the wrapped palm must be covered with a waterproof material. This way, the insulation material remains dry. Also provide an opening between the roof and the sides for good air circulation. If the temperature permits, it is definitely recommended to ventilate from time to time.

Some hobbyists build a whole construction to protect the palm. The possibilities are countless with sufficient creativity.

Suitable species e.g.:
Chamaerops humulis (-12°C – 10,4°F), Trithrinax campestris (-12°C - 10,4°F), Brahea armata (-10°C - 14°F) , Butia eriospatha (-12°C - 10,4°F), Jubeae chilensis (-15°C - 5°F)

The following species are regarded as very hardy but due to our humid winters they are only half as frost-resistant in our conditions:
Nannorrhops ritchiana (-20°C – -4°F), Rhapidophyllum hystrix (-20°C - -4°F), Sabal minor (-20°C - -4°F)

In milder winters or with a very good protection also suitable for:
Phoenix canariensis (-6°C – 21,2°F), Washingtonia robusta (-4°C – 24,8°F), Livistona chinensis (-6°C - 21,2°F), Raphis humilis (-4°C - 24,8°F)

A cubicle in 6 simple steps

1. leaves tied up 2. light tube placed 3. wooden frame placed

4. roof placed 5. other plants fill the empty space 6. shrink foil around the cubicle with open space on the bottom and the top. Only when severe frost is announced bubble wrap plastic is fixed on top for the time the frost persists.

Indoor hibernation

This method is of course only applicable for the palms that are kept in pots. The palm gets a spot in a heated greenhouse or indoors. Preferably, the temperature should remain as low as possible, but of course it should still be above the minimum limit of the palm species. For tropical species, this minimum temperature can be quite high, but for most species an unheated space in the house is sufficient. During this period, the palm goes into a resting period. The water gift must therefore be reduced as  evaporation is also reduced. A too wet soil can cause root rot. If the palm is placed in a heated room, the humidity must be monitored carefully. A dry air, caused by central heating, makes the palm much more sensitive to pests such as lice and spider mites. This can be remedied by regular spraying of the palm. It is also recommended to place water bowls. In addition, the lack of light in the home is also a problem. Only the places close to a window offer just enough light in these dark winter months. However, pay attention to direct sunlight due to the burning of the leaves.

Suitable species e.g.:
Phoenix roebelenii (-1°C – 30,2°F), Bismarckia nobilis (10°C – 50°F), palmseedlings

Conclusion

The above methods give an idea of how best to protect the palm. However, this is never a guarantee of success. As mentioned earlier, there are too many factors involved. Also the appropriate species are only an indication. When winters are more severe, the most hardy species must also be well protected. In case of doubt, it is best to consult other enthusiasts or feel free to contact us.

© La Palmeraie

Winter is on the doorstep. It is high time to take the necessary precautions. Now it is still pleasant work outdoors and so not everything has to happen overnight when it suddenly freezes. Firstly, we need to take an inventory. Which plants need protection? Which not? Which methods are there and which are best suited to your needs? Our article about the general winter protection of palms helps you on your way.

Palms planted outside in the open

In the case of palm trees in the open, protection must be provided locally. For some species it is sufficient to bind the leaves upwards only when the frost is severe and wrap a little fleece cloth around the stem and leaves. A Trachycarpus fortunei is a good example of this.

But unfortunately many palms are much more sensitive to frost. In that case, more work needs to be done on good protection in order to successfully guide the palm through the winter. The most important thing is to keep the plant dry. After all, moist is enemy number one, certainly in combination with frost.

A solid roof is the first step. Often this is supplemented with side walls of bubble wrap or fleece cloths and a light tube around the palm as a heat source. This way the temperature around the palm can be kept artificially a few degrees higher than the outside temperature.

Below you will find a construction plan of our winter protection for a Butia eriospatha. As you can see a whole investment! Both building and purchasing the materials. But much of this is only a one-time event. After the winter, the protection is only partially disassembled, so that it is easy to reassemble next year. Most materials can be used for this purpose. And don’t forget that thanks to all these efforts, you can enjoy a beautiful palm during the other months.

Some points of attention:

• What are the characteristics of the palm? Keeping a tropical specimen frost-free requires a different approach than a palm that is hardy up to -12°C.
• Use sturdy materials and anchor the protection sufficiently. After all, the building is exposed to all elements for several months. Do not underestimate the wind in particular.
• Insulate and ventilate! The warmth escapes mainly via the top side; so also provide insulation there but ventilate very regularly to prevent mold formation etc. An accessible opening simplifies the work involved.
• Provide a pitched roof. Not only the rain and snow can get away so much better, also the condensation drops on the inside will drive away to the lowest point!
• A thermometer with radio transmitter and remote switch for the heat source are ideal for monitoring and influencing conditions remotely. You don’t have to go outside on cold winter days.

Used materials:

round wooden poles (2 longer, 2 shorter)
wooden slats
pine wood beam
construction film
magnets
plastic corrugated roofing sheet_________________ €40,- local DIY store

4 metres of bubble wrap______________€20,- local garden center

light tube 10m (not LED!)________ €12,- second hand because hard to find. Heating cable will also do!

welded wire fencing___________________ recovered material

Building plan:

• The 2 longest poles are connected to each other at the top side by a sturdy pine beam. Tilt slats ensure that everything stays in place.
• On the underside a crossbar is also mounted at some distance from the ground.
• Both the front and rear poles are then hammered into the ground with their pointed ends.
• Then 2 slats are screwed at the bottom of each frame to connect the front and rear.
• Subsequently, 3 slats are placed on the pine beams at the top, then the corrugated sheet is attached to it.
• Then the sides are sealed with a sturdy plastic. By attaching the plastic with wooden strips, the plastic will not tear quickly. The front side is easy to open to easily reach the palm.

• The inside is covered with insulating bubble wrap. The front side can be rolled up for ease of access.
• The palm leaves are tied up and a the wire fence is put around at some distance.
• Finally, a light hose is wound around the wired fence (no direct contact with the palm due to risk of burns!).

Alternatively, you can also work with stretch film. This is available on a roll from the larger construction markets and via the internet. The big advantage is the low price (€9, – for 300 meters) and easy installation. Knot one end on a pole of the cubicle and then wrap the foil tightly around the cubicle by walking around it several times. The other end is also knotted again. If the temperature drops too much, bubble wrap can be temporarily attached to the outside of the cubicle.

Left with ordinary plastic, right with shrink film

© La Palmeraie

“Winter is coming” has become a well known saying, but for exotic plant lovers it is a yearly tradition to be well prepared before winter actually kicks in. For palm trees planted outside in the open you can find everything you need to know in this article “How to protect your palm tree during winter”. For palms in pots the method is slightly different of course. In this article we give you all the information you need to successfully protect your potted palm trees during the winter.

What species?

“A potted palm is much more sensitive to frost!”

Hardiness

The exact hardiness of one species is not always easy to determine. On the internet many different values can be found and sellers do sometimes not hesitate to exaggerate the hardiness for obvious raisons. We have already seen Trachycarpus fortunei been sold with a hardiness mention of -25°C (-13°F) while -18°C (0,4°F) is a lot more realistic. Some fora do propose “freeze data” with actual experiences of other hobbyist but keep in mind that not all conditions are always identical.

The protection

• Place your palm in pot just before the winter close to the façade. Thus it benefits from the radiant heat of the house and is sheltered.

• Put the pot on a pedestal to avoid contact with the cold ground. A few cubes of wood, a large tile, … Everything that is stable enough will do.

• Pack the pot completely with an insulating material. This does not even have to be breathable. Bubbles plastic is perfectly suitable. This prevents freezing of the roots. Cover the top as well so that you can manage the moisture of the soil yourself.

• If the weather forecast indicates more severe frost than your palm can handle, you can take the palm inside as long as this frost persists. A cool space is ideal, light is less important during this short period. A garage, garden house, … are all suitable. The warm living room is less ideal due to the large temperature difference.

• Do not forget to water your palm during the periods without frost!

©La Palmeraie

The beautiful Gunnera with its striking large leaves is hardy to about -20°C (-4°F) with minimal winter protection. In this article, we show you how to prepare the Gunnera for the winter.

Step 1

• cut every leaf as low as you can

Step 2

• cover up the hearth of the Gunnera with dry organic material as dried leaves

• turn the cut off Gunnera leaves upside down and place them over the organic mulching layer. This will keep the layer underneath dry and prevent it from be blown away.

NB. You can also invert these steps by placing the Gunnera leaves first and then the mulching layer but it will be more sensitive to wind!

Step 3

• cover up with something waterproof (and big enough) as a huge container or plastic sheet.

©La Palmeraie

We dig up our Colocasias every winter. In this way they can easily be overwintered. Below you will see how this can be done easily. Only the Colocasia esculenta ‘Pink China’ is completely frost resistant and does not require any winter protection.

Hint: don’t forget to label your Colocasia before hibernation as during winter they often completely loose their characteristics!

© La Palmeraie

Below you can see how we protect our ensuite ventricosum ‘Maurelli’ every winter.

Hint: Let the plant dry well before hibernation and do not give a drop of water throughout the whole winter. Do not rewater till April when the plant picks up growth again.

© La Palmeraie